velocity problem

Hi all, saw this thread and figured I'd put my question here rather than duplicate a similar discussion.

I'm also having velocity trouble.  My A5 doesn't want to shoot above 240, even with the velocity screw nearly all the way out of the gun.

I switched from CO2 to CA- No change.

I replaced the bolt spring with a Maddman- No change.

On my last test firing, the gun never got above 240, and I noticed there's a fairly significant amount of air coming out of the velocity screw when I fire. 

I disassembled the gun, and I can't find a crack in the powertube, but the velocity screw does "wiggle" slightly, and I can screw it in and out with no trouble with my fingertips.

This leaves two questions:  First, is this looseness the cause of my problem?  If my hunch is correct and it is, will a replacement powertube fix the problem?

I know this post is kind of long; thanks ahead of time for any suggestions.  I'm seriously at my wit's end, here.

hardball_67 wrote: Thanks for the info Bruce.  Never heard of the Apex before.  Crazy is the first thing that comes to mind.  So why can this barrel handle the "bend" with good paint then the flatline? Being old, big, and fat I'm always looking for an edge.  I think I posted on another thread I purchased a SP 16" for $21 as an improvement on the stock barrel.  I found the Apex for $80 and don't mind going that route if it replaces the flatline.  I was thinking of getting another anyway but if this is better and less...???

A couple of things about the Apex that may make it able to handle fragile paint a bit more gently. The Flatline starts the ball rotating almost as soon as it starts moving.  This may cause the paintball to actually flatten and grow radially as it comes up to speed still inside the bore and touch the opposite side.

I have also found that paint with pronounced seams does not do well through the Flatline because, in my theoretical analysis, as it rolls along the top of the barrel to come up to speed it may bounce back and forth in the bore much like a a tire with a lump on it bounces as it rolls along the pavement.

The Apex imparts spin using a small rubber covered ramp in the last 1.5 inches of the barrel. The bore is open at that point so there is no opposite side with which the spinning ball might bounce or scuff. Also. the Flatline brings the ball up to rotational speed the same way every time...the only variable being velocity. The Apex spin imparting ramp can be adjusted, on the fly, to spin the ball more or less. So if the paint is fragile the ramp engagement can be reduced lessening the abuse of the paintball.

As for being old and fat, I fall into that category. Speedball is my incentive to get out and walk 2.5 miles five days a week. After a quarter mile to warm up I increase my speed to 140+ steps a minute. If I am diligent during the week I can keep up with my son (he's 17) on the mad dash to get to the first bunker.

 

Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 02 March 2007 at 11:59am

 

Thanks for the info Bruce.  Never heard of the Apex before.  Crazy is the first thing that comes to mind.  So why can this barrel handle the "bend" with good paint then the flatline?

Being old, big, and fat I'm always looking for an edge.  I think I posted on another thread I purchased a SP 16" for $21 as an improvement on the stock barrel.  I found the Apex for $80 and don't mind going that route if it replaces the flatline.  I was thinking of getting another anyway but if this is better and less...???

 

 

Played again today.  The Flat line sucked.  I had double the kills once I changed to the stock barrel (it was windy though).  I'm ditching the Flat line....  It's nice when it shoot "perfect" but I spend half my day tuning the kids guns.  Just looking for low maint.

Mack wrote: Regarding the remote problem. If you're using the same tank, then the issue is definitely with the remote. Before you replace anything on the remote check to make sure the on/off knob (assuming you have one) is not screwing in so far that it is interfering with the airflow. Try backing it off 1/4 turns and testing the velocity.

I agree with that. I once ran a remote setup that had exactly that problem. If you turned the valve knob too far it actually closed off the gas flow.

http://www.maddmanproducts.com/Home_Page/Spring_Kits.html

There are other online stores that also carry them for a little less money. Make sure you select the set for the 98!

Mantyluoto wrote: i installed a new spring, only a standard one and i still cant get it to chrono higher than 200. Any other ideas?

Yes, that wasn't the fix. The fix is an aftermarket spring kit with a stronger than standard spring.

There is another way that some find effective. Pull the guide rod out of the back end cap, drop a BB in the hole and slip the rod back into place in the cap. This raises the head of the rod which compresses the spring just a bit and will increase velocity. The BB it captured underneath the head of the rod and stays in place.

Capt.Jonesy wrote: Yomillio wrote: Capt.Jonesy wrote: phil_stl wrote: If you are set on getting better internals the only one that makes a real difference I found was the Rufus Dawg wiked bolt... the Rear Titanium hammer reduces kick very slightly and does increase slightly cycle rate but IDK if it was worth the price tag? Phil gives good advise, as usual.  Did you just say what I think you did? jk... I did, and I meant it.  Other than being a little over zealous about the 98C, Phil usually uses good logic to back up his recommendations.  Just my $.02

I concur.  Chill on Phil_stl. 

 

 

hardball_67 wrote: Bruce, I don't yet speak marker.  I'm trying, just not there yet. So, is the spring I'm describing the one of which you speak?  If not, what chu talk'n 'bout willis? Thanks.

The spring that sits between the hammer (rear bolt) and the rear cap. Rides on the rod. That is the spring that drives the  hammer forward to strike the power valve pin. If this spring is weak, the velocity of the ball is reduced. Changes in hammers or installation of stocks that replace the rear cap can change the compression of the spring and reduce its effectiveness.

Fix is to install the stronger spring from a spring kit, or one can replace the rear cap with a Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA) which allows you to compress the spring more or less as needed to change velocity. (with an RVA you may be able to open the velocity adjustment screw, in the front part of the power tube, and make you velocity adjustments only with the RVA)

Read the manual and look at the schematic view to learn the names of the parts so that when someone tells you what is required to solve your problems with the marker you will know what he is talking about. The still may be some confusion because different manuals have called the same part by different names...such as the Power Valve is also called the CVX valve...and the ASA is also called, hmmm, I have forgotten...someone else will point it out. The pin that the hammer hits which opens the CVX valve is commonly and correctly called a poppet valve. The whole unit, the CVX/Power Valve is called a valve but the pin that opens it is sometimes called the pin valve or poppet valve...sort of a valve in a valve!!! Anyway, you'll catch on.

it is, and its what i'm going to do as well

Edited by Mantyluoto - 16 February 2007 at 6:36pm