paintball tank

How much are you wanting? Like a 13000 PSi or a 16Oz what? (I'm also new to paintball :P)

ps. I know that with 3000 psi you get 10 shots per cubic inch. with 4500, you get 15.                       

Edited by splat!udead - 31 December 2010 at 12:09am

http://www.empirepaintball.com/paintball-marker/apex-barrel-system/ - Battle Tested Apex Barrel, you can get an Adapter for this.

Thanks LOSTxPROPHIT for the link to that barrel. I know that I will be buying a stock for my marker, and the barrel looks realy nice, but like I said, I realy need to find out exactly what kind of tank I should buy. meaning  how many ci it should be, and what psi it should be. I have already added the stock to my birthday list, and for now I just need a tank. Also, if I buy the remote line I am going to have to buy some kind of vest right?

Edited by splat!udead - 31 December 2010 at 1:15pm

well, I am going to buy a stock and I have researched on what type of tank I am going to buy. I am thinking of a 70 ci 4500psi tank. thanks for all the help

splat!udead wrote: ps. I know that with 3000 psi you get 10 shots per cubic inch. with 4500, you get 15.                          pps. I also have the tippmann 98 custom platinum series with A.C.T.

Typically, 3k Psi tanks are metal and 4.5K psi tanks are carbon fiber. CF tanks are considerably lighter. A 3k metal tank will weigh considerably more than a 4.5k carbon fiber tank.  One drawback to CF tanks is that they are more prone to damage. Tank cover/protectors are a necessity with them. With that said, I prefer CF tanks due to more shots/tank. They are also CONSIDERABLY more expensive. You can get a 3k/72ci tank for $40-50 vs a 4.5k tanks will be at least $120+ for a comparably sized tank.

Edited by oldpbnoob - 31 December 2010 at 9:27pm

X7MAN wrote: I personally do not like the flat-line.  It is not accurate.  A properly set-up/utilized Flatline barrel can be quite accurate; it just requires an understanding of how the barrel works and a bit of experience in using it. The red-dot site does really nothing except amp up the looks of the gun. Not exactly true.  When used by someone that both knows their marker and knows how the red dot was sighted in they can be quite handy for making sure that the first shot is on target at medium to longer ranges.  Something that is quite handy at times.  However, for this purpose, a cheap Wal-Mart BB gun sight usually works just as well as some of the much more expensive, fancier, sights that some people put on their markers. The iron sights are hard to look through if you have a hard plastic mask.  The remote line is good.  A lot of times you have to take it apart where the tank meets the remote line and put teflon around all the hose screw and other things like that. No you don't.  I don't know anyone that has ever had to do that.  A common failure point however are the little o-rings in the slide-check if the remote includes one.  Proper maintenance is quite important. If you get a 4500 tank make sure the remote line can take that pressure mine can only take 3000.  Not a concern.  4500 psi tanks and 3000 psi tanks do not put out either 4500 or 3000 psi of output.  They are regulated to outputs of 400 psi to 900 psi depending upon the regulator on the tank.  If the regulator fails, they theoretically could put out their maximum pressure but they are equipped with burst disks which are designed to vent the tank in case of such a failure.                                                                        Mike

X7MAN wrote: Not really, you could use a army surplus gas mask bag. This is not a good solution for carry a tank that is on a remote line.  First, it puts a large and bulky object on the side of one's leg which means this object will be moving with every move of the leg resulting in a constant and annoying flapping.  Second, it puts the tank on a lower extremity, potentially exposing it to more damage when diving/sliding.  Third, it puts the tank into a side loading carrier which means if the flap holding it place becomes unsnapped, it is much more likely to fall out. The two most common solutions for carrying a tank that is on a remote line are belt pouches and a harness system.  Having used both, I prefer the harness.  The belt pouch tends to catch on things when worn on the side and flop when moving when worn in the back.  (It's like being rhythmically spanked while running--very annoying.)  The harness systems are generally much more stable and have the added benefit (when properly adjusted) of spreading the weight between the upper and lower body. An alternate solution I have seen that did seem to work well for the user was a friend of mine years ago who carried a huge steel tank (100+ ci/3000 psi) in a Camelbak pouch.                                                                 Mike

Edited by Mack - 01 January 2011 at 11:04am

X7MAN wrote: My friend had trouble with his remote line and I had trouble with mine also, but now as I think about it, it was the slide check o-rings on his.  A little grease on those will make them last a long time. About the remote line pressure.  I was just going on the fact that my remote says on the hose 3000psi.  I just thought that it could only take up to that amount of pressure. It can only take up to that amount of pressure.  What I was pointing out is that a tank with a storage pressure of 3000 psi or 4500 psi does not actually put out anywhere near those amounts of pressure.

Edited by Mack - 06 January 2011 at 11:06am

Bad paint will reduce the effectiveness of any barrel, but it will be especially noticeable with a backspin barrel. 

A properly set up flatline can be quite effective.  I was running one quite a few years ago that was very accurate.  Of course, that level of accuracy required a lot of input on my part.  I was using an after-market spring and had added a rear velocity adjuster so I could balance air output amount against air output release rate when the trigger was pulled to get a large volume of air that was released slowly so the paint would gain most of its acceleration in the barrel as opposed to at the breach.  I was also using compressed air for its output consistency.  Even so, it took me most of a season to get the marker operating exactly like I wanted. 

When I moved the parts from the original Model 98 they were on to a 98 Custom so I could add a Response Trigger it took me another few weeks to get the air output per shot set up right again.  Either way, once it was set up, and I had trained myself to use it properly (making sure I wasn't tilting the marker during firing for one thing) it was deadly.  I could make single shot eliminations at any range that anyone with a normal barrel could except that I didn't have to worry about arcing the ball in; they were straight shots.  (Which was very handy with the overhanging cover we had where I was playing at the time.)  I could also provide suppressive fire at ranges far beyond what anyone else could do.

It was very picky on paint though.  Fortunately, the field in question sold a variety of paint.

Now, while this sounds like a lot of work, it doesn't have to be.  The one Flatline equipped marker I have remaining after several down-sizings of my collection is an A5.  The A5 Flatline (and I assume the one for the X7 as well) is much easier to initially install.  While this one, which is run on an A5 using CO2 that is only upgraded with an expansion chamber and Response Trigger, it is still quite effective.  I can't regularly get the single shot eliminations I used to get, but I can take out people at those ranges with a three round burst.  At the longer ranges used for suppressive fire it is just as effective since those ranges are generally where one uses accuracy by volume anyway.

 I set up several Flatlines for other folks to use over the years and mainly had good results.  I did come across one on a 98 that just would not shoot worth a darn no matter what I did.  I don't know if it was the marker or the barrel, but sometimes I guess you just get a bad one.  (My experience with Tippmann markers tells me it was probably a bad Flatline.) 

A few additional Flatline usage thoughts:

• The Flatline must be clean to work properly
• The one I had on my 98 used to get removed and cleaned with hot soapy water between game days to remove any shell residue that had rubbed off on the interior surface
• Flatlines are very sensitive to velocity
• My general experience is the A5 ones work best in the mid 260s while the older 98 ones liked the mid 270s--there are however always exceptions
  

Thanks for all the help guys, I have just one more question. Where do you use paintball granades? Are they legal at paintball fields? If you could respond I would apprieciate it.