Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

Your paintball marker needs maintenance and adjustments. It is not a toy!

~1~ The first step in caring for your gun is to read the manual. You should be able to identify each part of your marker by name and functionality. You should be comfortable with removing the bolt assembly of the paintball marker to do a proper cleaning. CAUTION: never use anything but approved lubricants/oil on your paintball gun. Petroleum-based lubricants can swell the o-rings and cause problems.

At least once a month, or before playing, do this little maintenance routine: drop 4 to 8 drops of oil in the ASA adapter (the piece where your CO2 or nitrogen bottle fits.) Remove the barrel, attach your gas cylinder and fire about 30 shots of air through the marker. This spreads the oil throughout the entire marker, without getting any in the barrel.

After each day's play, you should strip your paintball marker down and clean out any bits of paint from broken paintballs.  After removing any paint, oil the internals. You don't have to "coat" a part, 1 to 2 drops is usually sufficient. Then use your finger to spread the oil all over the part. Make sure to oil the bolt and striker/hammer pretty heavily, especially where there is considerable wear.

~2~ To keep your CO2 tank o-ring from being destroyed during removal of the CO2 cylinder try unscrewing your cylinder about 1/2 to 3/4 turn (which disengages the pin on the CO2 cylinder valve) and firing your marker until all pressure is relieved. This will remove the pressure that may damage your o-ring.

~3~ Jammed bolts are common. Bolts jam when a piece broken paintball wedges between the bolt and the inside of the paintball marker body. The key to popping it loose is to basically pull or push it hard enough to break it free. To soften the paint, you can flush that area with hot water. With markers like the Autococker you can just grab the back-block and pull as hard as you can to pop it loose. The key with other markers is to push it loose from the front with a stick-type squeegee. I strongly recommend taking off the barrel. If you have broken shell jamming your bolt, chances are you have a broken shell and paint in your barrel as well. The last thing you want to do is shove more of that junk back into the bolt. Once you’ve popped your bolt loose, strip the bolt, and squeegee your receiver and barrel out. Squeegee cleaning clears all the garbage out and helps ensure you won’t jam again. If your bolt keeps jamming up despite squeegee cleaning, it’s time to check your feed tube, elbow, and hopper. Chances are that you broke a ball up in the hopper or chopped one and sprayed paint and shell fragments up into your feed tube. If you break a ball inside your hopper, dump your paint and clean out the hopper/loader with a clean cloth.

~4~ If your marker is breaking balls. A: turn down your rate of fire. B: check your ball detent as it should be only finger tight. C: make sure your velocity in no greater than 300 fps. D: keep your loader/hopper full. E: if you recently upgraded to a new barrel or bolt, try using the original parts again. F: check your paint, if it is misshapen, old, swollen, etc. that may be your problem. G: make sure your barrel is clean!

~5~ Is your gun sputtering? The o-rings may be worn or dry; therefore, try replacing or lubricating the o-rings. Maybe you gun needs oiled. You can take out the bolt, take off the barrel and then run a good quality squeegee through the chamber (make sure no fibers are left from the squeegee). Now that you have the bolt out, rinse it in hot water, dry it off completely, oil the bolt, and oil the o-rings and the hammer. Finally, if you shoot too fast and too long with CO2 your marker begins to freeze up (this is bad for the o-rings) and CO2 begins to leak around the o-ring causing it to sputter. This condition creates a reduction in pressure and if the pressure gets low enough, the bolt will not be pushed back far enough to cock. Therefor you may need to get an X-chamber or palmer Stabilizer. Or if you want even better performance get HPA.

~6~ Should you need additional instructions or help, check out the manufacturer’s web site for technical tips. Generally, a toll-free telephone number is provided in case you need to speak with someone directly. Remember, if the gun is going work properly, it needs to be used properly. Just like a car, or a motorcycle, or even a bicycle, it is a machine, and it does require maintenance.

~7~ Read the manual, buy some oil, learn how to properly clean the barrel and your gun with a squeegee and oil/water/ect.. If you can’t figure something out, remember that you have technical support available through the manufacturer or Go to some online Forum most people are rather helpful. It Doesn’t have to be a forum that your gun is (Spyder, Angle, Tippmann, ect.) all forums well help you best they can. And don’t whine to mom and dad about the gun being defective if you are not willing to invest your time to learn about the gun.

easier way to fix hopper wobble:

take off the feed elbow and stretch a standard tank o-ring around the bottom of it. thats it.  (this mod may need replacement every once in a while)

All about the R/T

What is it?

The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120.

How it works:

When the 98 or A-5 fires, there is excess Gas/ Air thatr is not used to propel the Paintball. Usually, that is just extra Gas/Air and is vented away. But with the R/T, it uses that excess Gas/ Air to power a little Piston that is located behind the Trigger. So, after everytime you shoot/fire the Paintball Marker, the R/T will take that excess Gas/Air and it will send the Gas/Air to the R/T's Piston. When that happens, the Piston will fill up with Air and it will push forward a little pin which will re-set the Trigger. It will do it fast enough so you will still end up having force on the Trigger. So, you will pull it again. That is called "Trigger Bounce".

What is all included:

98: The Response Trigger for the 98 will come with a new R/T Power Tube, R/T Hose (Cocker 3-Way), Banjo Fitting, Knurled Adjuster, and R/T Piston.

A-5: The Response Trigger for the A-5 will come with a new 3-Way Banjo Fitting for both the Cyclone and R/T, Knurled Adjuster, Knurled Adjuster Fittings, and R/T Piston.

FAQ:

1. Does the R/T use more Air?
No it does not! The R/T uses EXCESS Air to power itself.

2. How many BPS can it shoot?
Most R/T's will shoot around 14-15 BPS. But, some well tuned R/T's will fire at 16-17 BPS.

3. Is it Full Auto?
Not really. It just "Bounces" the Trigger. It is still 1 shot for each Trigger Pull.

4. Is it Tourny Legal?
It all depends. Some Feilds allow it, some dont. Go and ask them.

5. My R/T is not working. Whats wrong?
It could be a few problems.

1. You are putting too muich force on the Trigger. Therefore, the Piston cant Re-Set the Trigger.
2. There is something blocking the R/T's Air Hose.
3. The R/T is not adjusted properly.

6. My R/T is open on the end!!
The new R/T's have an Open "Face" on them.

How to install the Response Trigger:

98:
1. Dissassemble your Marker.
2. Remove the Valve Bolts and Re-Move the Power Tube.
3. Remove the Air hose or Verticle Adapter from the Valve/ Power Tube.
4. Get the Valve out of the Power Tube. You can lightly tap the Power Tube on a towle untill the Valve slides out.
5. Insert the Valve into the NEW Power Tube.
6. Take the right Receiver Half and a Nail-Set or Hole Punch. There is a little Groove/Slot about the Grips. Knock out that little "Plug"
7. Install the R/T Piston.
8. Put in all the Internals including the Power Tube. Dont forget the Valve Bolts!
9. Screw on the Banjo Fitting and Knurled Adjuster. Connect the Air Hose.
10. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

A-5:
1. Dissassemble the Marker. Take off the Grip Frame.
2. On the Right side of the Grip Frame, there is a small "Notch". Break that little peice out. You can use your fingers.
3. Take apart the Grip Frame and put in the R/T Piston.
4. Put in the new Trigger Plates. (If included) Some have them, some dont....
5. Take apart the Marker. Install the Knurled Adjuster and Fittinginto the bottom right hand corner of the Marker.
6. Put the Marker back together.
7. Take off the old Banjo Fitting (Connected to the Cyclone) and put on the new one.
8. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

For more info, check out the Tippmann Systems Page on www.tippmann.com

-tgaffner

A-5 Trigger Mods

here are a bunch of a-5 mods...

tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo *done*

New* A-5 mod diagram

evil ----- out

here are a bunch of a-5 mods...

tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo

evil ----- out

pen spring mod

things that you need

1. (1) pen spring (you might want more so that you can play with it)
2. (1) A-5

well its basicly what the title is. you get a clicking pen and take out the spring. now take apart the trigger assembly and take off the stock sear spring, and cut the pen spring to the same size as the stock's. if you want the pull to be a bit littler then how it already is. then cut the spring so that it just slides into the spacer and the sear without forcing it in. so the spring just drops in.

this will conclude to a lighter trigger pull

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maginet sear mod

things that you need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (1) A-5

again the title is what the mod is. you bacily take to strong rare earth maginets and flip them so that the reple each other. the sear is steel so the maginet will just stick on the the sear without a problem. the spacer is a bit different. you should get a round rare earth maginet and a square earth maginet. the round one for the spacer and the square one for the sear. the round maginet can be forced into the space between the spacer. the other maginet can just stick to the sear. this is a great mod.

this will conclude to a even lighter pull. (aka walkable)

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trigger stop

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw or regular screw
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5

ok a trigger stop is a great mod. it means what it is. it stops the trigger, it stops the trigger from going any further then it needs to. when you pull the trigger you only need to pull enought to trip the sear to release the hammer. well on the A-5 the trigger stop is a big mod. it helps alot. all that you have to do is either drill a hole on the trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger (preferably). after you drill the hole then you tap it to a set screw measurement (preferably 8-32 1/4" or 3/8"set screw). or you can tap the RT hole to a regular screw and screw that into it. then drill a hole on the back of the frame so that you adjust it from the back. now for adjusting it. first cock the A-5 then slowly pull the trigger and at the point of fire adjust the set screw forward untill the A-5 Barly fires, then slow adjust backward so that it pulls with eases. adjust to your likings

this will conclude to a shorter pull

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sear mod

things that you will need

1. (1) small diameter straw (about the same size of the pin)
2. (1) slightly bigger then the first straw
3. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8"or 1/2"set screw what ever works)
4. (1) regular power drill
5. (?) assorted drill bits
6. (?) taps
7. (1) A-5

this is a mod that will either make or break (well not phsicaly break). there are two ways of doing this. you can either use straws, or a set screw. with the set screw is adjustible so it is better. but it is a bit harder, you need to drill and tap a hole on the spacer that holds the sear spring to an angle prefectly if you were to put a set screw there and you adjust it forward that it will push the sear upward when you push the sear foward like the hammer does(the set screw is what i mean by break, if you do it wrong there is no way of fixing the spacer unless you replace it). the other way is that you can cut a straw 1/4" long and put the straw with the same diameter on the pin that the sear rests on, then put the slightly bigger one over the smaller one. if you start to double fire then take the bigger one off. this will make the sear higher so that the pull is lighter and more snappie

this will conclude to a lighter and snappier shot

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pretravel mod (preferably with the sear mod)

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8" set screw what ever works)
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5
6. (optional) vise clamp and drill press)

the pretravel mod is to adjust the prefire of the A-5. this wil make the trigger pull very short preferably done with the sear mod. all that you have do is drill a hole where the trigger return spring so in the trigger or more further so that the trigger return spring can still work right. then tap it to the set screw. screw it all the way so that the set screw is hidden. then assemble it all back together. ok so with the sear mod there is alot of prefire movement. so adjust the screw upward a quarter turn at a time, untill it doesnt fires, then a quarter turn at a time downward so that it fires barly. adjust to your likings.

this will conclude to a shorter pull

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maginet return mod

things that you will need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
3. (1) A-5

this is a simple mod that anyone can do. just go and but 2 round rare maginets and force on into the trigger spacer, and another that is reverse polarity. either cut the nub off of the trigger return spring of sand it down, and glue the maginet on. that is it

this will conclude to a longer lasting trigger return

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no slop mod

things that you will need

1. (1) sheet of very thin aluinum i.e. like hair line
2. (1) Dremel
3. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
4. (optional) shear
5. house hold material

this is a pretty nice mod. all that you have to do is take the sheet of aluinum and trace out the trigger plate on to it(preferably smaller then the plate). then cut it out with a shear if possible. after that either drill or sand out the hole for the safety if you need to. then sand the trigger plates down with either 80-60 grit sand paper so that the glue will stick better. then you can glue the aluminum sheets to the out sides of the plate and use the Dremel to sand the inside of the A-5 down a bit so that the trigger assembly fits in with out any movement between the trigger assembly and the inside of the A-5. that is it

this will conlude to a less or no slop trigger

more too come!!! PM me for more info, and if you find any that i havent quiet figured out..

evil 

Effective Upgrading

1) When buying upgrades for your gun remember it is your gun, you have to ask yourself what do I want to change, not what the people on the forum want to change. You also need to decide what type of gun do you want,(ex. speedball, woodsball, scenario, etc.), answering this question will be key in buying upgrades.

2) It is mutualy agreed that stock barrels suck, most always the first upgrade to buy is a barrel, many people have varying opinions on this subject. Some popular models are Lapco Bigshot, J&J Ceramic, Flatline, Boomstick, and many more. Barrels also vary in price, they range from $35 to $150. Buget also plays a role in upgrading, however more expensive does not always mean better, I believe that a Bigshot is just as good as a Boomstick though there is quite a price difference.

3) The next upgrade is usualy air, you must decide if you are willing to pay alot for the superior Nitrogen, or if you are content with Co2. Most say nitro is better but all say nitro is more expensive so once again the old pocketbook comes into play. However if you do stick with Co2 you will definiantly want to buy a good expansion chamber, these help to keep your Co2 consistent and they keep liquid out of your gun.

4) After you have air and a barrel, you need to make a choice, what type of play do I want my gun to excel at. If you want a speedball gun you may want a drop forward or a fire power upgrade like an R/T and an electronic hopper. Maybe you want a woodsball gun so you get a scope or a remote line. You can also get upgrades for looks, like fake magazines and suppresors, many players get their guns painted, the posobilities are endless.

5)In my expirience 1/4 of the fun in paintball is upgrading and showing off your gun, however this can be expensive and frustrating. As you upgrade your gun remember that it is your gun and that there is no limit.

       -- For Honor

Fine, I’ll admit it from the start. This is just another flatline post. And you are probably just another forumer looking for just another bit of info you probably have heard somewhere else before. I’m attempting to put everything I know, others know, and what you are looking to know (you clicked on the thread) into one place. That being said, take a gander!

What is the flatline?- The flatline is a curved barrel designed to add a large amount of range to your Tippmann 98, 98c, or A-5. It nearly doubles the range of an ordinary straight barrel. It has been proven to be the farthest shooting barrel on the market. With the flatline, you can aim straight at a target and not have to lob the paintballs to get it there. Nothing compares to the feeling you get when your opponent is lobbing paintballs which are landing harmlessly at your feet then you take one shot, a straight line, and nail him- flatlined!

How does it work?- The flatline barrel is curved upwards and has a rather rough interior. When the paintball is fired, it travels upwards, instead of straight, and falls victim to centrifugal force. The paintball starts to spin backwards inside the barrel and leaves the barrel in a straight line. The backspin creates high pressure above the paintball and low pressure below it, like an airplane wing. If the paintball was not subject to the forces of gravity, it would actually rise. The lift on the paintball counteracts the force of gravity and thus is travels on a flat line for a much longer distance. The paintball starts to lose backspin and begins to drop at around 200 feet but it will travel for almost 100 yards.

Cheapest place to buy one (that I know of)- http://www.edgepaintball.cjb.net/  where you can get it for $104. Of course, you can always get them much cheaper off ebay, but this site was recommended by another forumer as a good, trustworthy place to buy from

Length- 14 inches for the 98c, 9 inches for the A-5 version

Bore size- .692- large bore

Recommended velocity- the flatline can handle as low as 240 fps, but not much higher than 290. I’d recommend shooting between 260-280 fps for best results.

Recommended paint size- small bore paint works best, even though it’s a large bore barrel.

Recommended paint to use (taken from personal experience/others’ experiences)- The following “chart” does not necessarily include all types of paint, just the ones I figured were most common and/or that I picked at random without any idea if anyone actually uses them or not. So here’s the chart “key”- works very well, works fine, could go either way, not recommended, don’t let me catch you using this

32 degrees team color

Adrenaline

Brass Eagle Afterburner

Diablo Blaze

              Dusk

              Hellfire

              Inferno

              Midnight

Direct Hit

DraXxus Artic Inferno

              Midnight

Great American

JT Elite

     J-Ball

     Maxim

     Predator

Kingman Java Classic

                              Supreme

Nelson Anarchy

              Challenger

              Hot Spot

              Nel-Splat

Nitro Duck

Paintball Inc. Proball

              Proball Platinum

Paintball Junkies

PMI Advantage

              Black Maxx

              Evil

              Invader

              Mercury

              Premium

RPS All Star

              Attitude

              Big Ball

              El Tigre

              EuroFlite

              Evil

              Flash

              Invader

              Marballizer

              Polar Ice

              Premium Gold

              Slamball

              SuperSwirl

Tippmann Werks

Viewloader

Xtreem Aftermath

              Legends

              Pointblank

              Steel

Zap Advantage

              Performance Plus

              Primer

              Pro Series

              Pro European

              Select

              Sport

Installing the flatline- The first step to enjoying the flatline is installing it. Just screw it in like a normal barrel, right? Wrong. The flatline is anything but ordinary and that fact is shown best when you attempt to install it. Here are the verbatim instructions off the Tippmann website.

The A-5 instruction are located here- http://www.tippmann.com/support/manual/a5flatlinemanual.pdf

Basically what it’s saying is this- Loosen the three bolts, slide in the barrel adapter and oil the inside. Then slide in the barrel ( I put the barrel in first, then the shroud) and make sure it’s aligned straight. Now tighten the pinch bolt on the barrel adapter. The hard part in the installation is actually putting the barrel in straight. If you look on the top and back part of the muzzle break, you will notice a notch in the barrel a few mm across. Look down the front of the barrel and line that up with the crack on the marker where the two receiver halves meet. It should be at the 12 o’clock position. Now tighten the pinch bolt. I recommend going out to a safe area and firing 3 shots at something harmless (like a tree or cardboard target). If the shot grouping is not dead on from about 40 yards, loosen your pinch bolt and turn the barrel accordingly. I recommend scratching in your own mark, either on tape or on the barrel itself, once the barrel is installed correctly because the notch on the muzzle break is not necessarily where the center needs to be. Some people tend to hold the marker naturally at a certain angle. Align the flatline to shoot straight from this position, not up-and-down with the marker. 

             The plastic shroud is not needed for the performance of the barrel, but it does protect it. It helps keep dirt and mud out of the barrel adapter and it protects from the bumps and bruises a barrel would acquire during use.

How to clean the flatline- The most important step on your way to enjoying the flatline is installing it. The second is cleaning it. Think of the flatline as a high performance car. You want to treat it right so it’ll treat you right. The best way to prevent a ball break is to make sure the barrel is free of debris. Fill up a bathtub about a foot deep with warm water. Put everything- the flatline, the shroud, the adapter- into the water. Pour in a little soap, it doesn’t matter what kind, and let it soak for about 30 minutes. When you take it out of the water, dry off the shroud and barrel adapter. Take your squeegee and run it through the barrel about 4-5 times to get any last debris out. Let them sit inside (not outside in the sun, as it can weaken objects after an extended period of time) to dry.  

The cotton ball method- This is intended as a “quick fix” and should not be your main cleaning after a ball break. Take a baggie and fill it with about a dozen cotton balls. Then fill it with alcohol (not Sam Adams) so that it covers the cotton balls. Take it with you during play and when you get a ball break, unhinge the elbow, place an alcohol-soaked cotton ball in the chamber, and fire it out. When you fire it, aim to hit someone because the cotton ball will be covered in paint. Do this about 2-3 times. The alcohol will break down the paint and the cotton ball will carry it out. Like I said, this is only a temporary solution. A good cleaning after the day is over is a good idea.                         

"The balls curve up when the leave the barrel"- Nope. Not true, or atleast in the noticable sense. The upwards lift created by the backspin cancels out the downwards pull from gravity, allowing the paintballs to go further. It does rise a tiny bit, but a matter of millimeters. In general, they leave the barrel in a straight line and don't start going down until the upwards lift starts to slow (the spin slows) and no longer cancels out gravity. This was one of those myths that is based on fact but expanded to a bigger deal than it really is.

“The flatline doesn’t shoot as fast as other barrels”- The following will eliminate much reading- 280 fps is always going to be 280fps. If you’re too thick headed to understand that, how about an explanation?  The illusion the balls are traveling slower is just that- an illusion. Your eyes aren’t used to seeing a paintball travel for that far in such a straight line. Your mind assumes it’s traveling the standard distance but you see that it’s in the air longer. You thus conclude that it’s traveling slower. It is true that over distance the paintball loses speed, as with any barrel, but that’s something you sacrifice when you get the longer range. You just have to decide if it’s worth it to you.

“The flatline isn’t accurate”- With the flatline, you have a much greater engagement distance than with any other barrels. The flatline is very accurate at distances that other barrels can reach. It doesn’t compare to a Freak or an All American, but it can hold it’s own. The problem is, people think it should be just as accurate at longer distances. What they don’t think about is that the paintball is subject to the wind, moisture in the air, ect longer. The greater a distance it travels, the more it’s exposed. If there is a 5 mph wind coming from the left, it might blow a paintball shot out of a straight barrel to the right three inches from the aiming point by the time it hits the ground. The same situation would blow a paintball shot from a flatline off target by possibly a foot by the time it hits the ground. The flatline is still very accurate at “normal” ranges, but the farther the paintball travels, the more it’s affected by outside forces and the greater a chance is has of being knocked off target. Properly installing a flatline, as outlined before, will also make a huge difference in how accurate it is.

“You can’t shoot fast with a flatline”- It’s a problem of multiplication. The faster you shoot, the more paintballs travel through your barrel. The more paintballs travel through your barrel, the greater the likelihood that one will break. Let’s say Johnny Triggerhappy is shooting at 10 bps for 10 seconds. In that period of time, he’s shot 100 paintballs. Now let’s say the odds are that one in every 100 paintballs breaks (for that to be true, he’d have to be shooting with bad paint, but for simplicity’s sake, let’s say those are the odds). He’d be breaking one paintball every time he did this. It’s not that the flatline breaks balls, it’s that people shoot more and with bad paint. The reason the flatline seems to break so many paintballs is that it tends to be picky with paint, so the odds may worsen for you if you don’t pay attention to which type paintballs you use.

“The paintballs don’t break at the longer ranges”- This is false. Take a hammer and hit a paper plate on a stand (or parent). Now tie a rope to the end of the hammer and go hit a paper plate while swinging the hammer by the rope in a counter-clockwise manner. The second time should produce much more damaging results. A spinning paintball not only has the force from going forward, but the force from spinning upwards too. As a general rule of thumb- don’t expect the paintballs to break once they start to drop. But if you can hit the person in a straight line, your chances are good that the paintball will break on them.

Curving paintballs- You’ll find that by turning the flatline on its side, you can actually put a slight curve on paintballs. You can curve them around the edges of bunkers or other objects or you can turn the marker upside down and drop them over the top like a knuckle ball. This is due to the spin put on the paintball. When you put the marker on it’s side, the backspin becomes sidespin. You just have to mess around with it to get a feel for how much they curve. It’s hard to accurately predict where they will land when you curve them, but I have developed a pretty good method- I have fashioned a sight made from toothpicks to help me accurately place my shots when I decide to curve them. With the toothpick sight, I simply aimed at a spot 40 yards away and then watched where the paintball hit at 40 yards. I cut a toothpick on the barrel(keep in mind- the marker is on it's side right now)lying perpendicular to the marker when it's straight up, pointing towards where my shot landed. I did this for both sides. Think of the sights for a bow and arrow. That's kind of what it looks like.

The A-5 Flatline- The A-5 flatline works and acts the same as the 98c version. The concept behind it, and everything about it- curving balls, being semi-accurate at longer distances, the distance it shoots, ect is the same as the 98 custom version. The only thing that's different is more of the technical info like how to install it and the length.  

I hope this post helped. It has taken me about 2 weeks to write this up and gather information. I hope to inform many of the potential flatline users as to what, exactly, the flatline really is. I’ve tried to make my information as accurate as possible, but if you see an error, please feel free to correct me. I’d appreciate it very much.

Best of luck,

                     Rhino39