Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

Paintball Grenades

 

 

Paintball grenades are used most often in scenario games, and are also used often in recreational woods ball games. Although, not all fields allow the use of paint grenades, so before you go to the field with a box of grenades to play, check with the field owner to see if you can use them. They can be extremely useful when there is a large bunker with several people in it, that your paintballs cannot penetrate. Although, many people use grenades in situations like this, but do not do something correct, causing your 5 dollar grenade not to explode. Several things can be blamed for this.

 

1. You did not shake well before using. That is the number one problem. Not shaking the grenade usually results in it not exploding, but sometimes it may explode without shaking if you throw it very high.

 

2. Did not throw correctly. Many people throw their paintball grenades similar to a baseball just with a little arch. You need to lob it with a lot of arch.

 

3. You forgot t take a part off the grenade. I’ve seen people forget to take the pin out. Some people take the mesh off of the tube. Those people usually get better results.

 

Types Of Grenades

 

• Tippmann Squad busters. Too bad they aren’t as reliable as other Tippmann products.

 

• Bouncing Betty’s. Usually work without a hitch.

 

• Meteor Shower Grenades. What I think are the best on the market. Sometimes they are too sensitive and can go off in your pocket while crawling. With these, you can set them up as a trip mine, or you can throw like a normal grenade.

 

• Banana Grenades. I have never used any of these, but on my local field, I have seen them used and they are quite reliable.

So you wanna paint your marker....

 

Materials:
1.Steel Wool (optional)
2. Primer
3. Spray Paint
4. Clear Coat
5. Dermal (optional)
6. Tape (optional)

 

1. Field Strip your marker, take everything out so you
just have your receiver halves.

 

2. Use either a dermal or steel wool to strip off all the
paint off your marker (yes the stock tippmann black
or silver paint) be sure to get UNDER the marker and
the BACK of the marker (these are spots I almost
missed)

 

3. Wipe down your marker with a Wet Cloth to make
sure you get all the debris off of it, and to see if you
missed any spot where some paint might still be.

 

4. Tape off your internals so no paint will get on the
inside, cover all the holes and everything (this step is
optional)

 

5. Spray about 3-4 LIGHT coats of primer. Let dry. Go
back and see if you missed a spot and to be sure
both receivers are completely covered with the
primer.

 

6. Spray the spray paint on the marker, about 3-4
coats and let dry. Just like doing the primer but
colored. Make sure you got every where on the
marker. Make sure the coats are Light and smooth
on both receiver halves… let dry

 

7. Now, Spray both receivers halves with some clear
coat, make sure you cover the entire marker. Make
the coats light and quick. This should make your
marker look a little “shiny” and “smooth”… let dry

 

8. If your internals were taped off then they should
look fine on the inside. If they don’t or you didn’t tape
them off then get out your steel wool (EXTRA fine
steel wool) or dermal and polish up your internals or
just polish it up so the paint, primer or clear coat is
gone.

 

9. Put your newly painted marker together

 

10. Show off

 Pictures:



Another way to paint your maker is to use
Auto-motive paint. Get some sand paper and sand
down the paint on your tippmann (the stock
tippmann paint) just a little bit. Spray 3-4 coats of
primer on, then the paint and then the clear coat. The
process is the same just you didn’t sand off all the
stock tippmann paint. The paint will be much
“thicker” and it may be a little harder to install your
screws because of the thicker paint. Etc. Also it
tends to be “Mushy” and not as durable as the other
paintjob but it still turns out great!

 

Of coarse the paint is going to chip and scratch etc.
But just get some nail polish to touch up scratches,
cheap, your wife/girlfriend has plenty of them and
comes in a variety of colors.

 

Good Luck,

Ultimate Trooper

 

Disclaimer:
I am NOT responsible for you screwing up your
marker. These are steps and the exact way I painted
my marker. You are at fault for your own actions. PM
me for more detailed instructions..

 

Hopefully I will have pictures with a more
detailed step-by-step instructions too.

Edited by ultimatetrooper

Removine and Re-Locating the E-Bolt Battery:

Here is a very easy diagram on how to do this mod.

All you need is:

1. Solder Gun.

2. Solder.

3. Extra Wire.

4. 30 Minutes.

5. Depends on how and were you mount it.

6. Maybe an LED Light.

Here is a diagram on how to do it:

Hey, you guys might wanna have one uber mod thread for the A-5 and one for the m98... just an idea. Y'all can delete this if you don't like it or don't think it belongs here.

My experience with other guns has given me some vision for creating the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job … So this post documents the creation of it.

The first thing I noticed in playing around with all the triggers in “higher end” electro guns was all the grubscrews. There are ways to set nearly every aspect of the trigger in most of these guns. I looked at my A-5 egrip and I thought, “Where are MY grubscrews?   How can I adjust MY trigger?” Well, without resorting to serious modification, you really can’t. But there is a way to modify you’re A-5/E-grip. It simply involves performing the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job .

What You Need:
-a tiny grubscrew, about as small as you can find
-a longer grubscrew that is just about as skinny as the tiny one
-a power drill
-a few springs to try out
-your E-grip

Okay, for those of you going, “uh… what the heck is a grubscrew….?” Here is what I’m talking about:



They are sitting on a towel, so if you compare their size to the size of the towel threads, you can imagine how small these ones are. They have solid bottoms and a hole in the top. The hole fits those really small hex wrenches.

First, a little back ground on how the E-Grip works.



As you can hopefully see, when the trigger is pulled, the switch is released. This activates a solenoid which propels a rod into the sear, tripping it and causing the hammer to fly forward into the valve, etc… Basically all we are really concerned about here is the switch release, because we can’t really control much of anything else.

The key point of understanding here is that the switch is released, not depressed as in most electro gun. The switch is actually “activated” while the trigger is at rest. The act of releasing the switch is what fires up the ‘noid. This creates a problem. As an example, the easiest and quickest way to speed up a timmy or matrix is to take the spring OUT of the gun and rely on the switch to provide the trigger return force. We don’t have that option here. The switch force is actually working with the trigger. Thus, you can abandon any thought of removing the trigger spring, you’re gonna need it at the very least to balance out the switch pressure.

Here are a couple more pictures to hopefully clear this up:







Setting The Activation Point

To have a nice trigger, you need to have a really short pull and you need a reliable method of creating it. The goal is typically a mouse click. Go ahead and click on your mouse. How far down did you have to push? A millimeter maybe? Well, I’ve gotten my A-5 to release the switch after about that must of a pull by literally shaving off and replacing part of the trigger. Now, there are other ways to do this. Evan Aris has a trigger job that is supposed to do this. I have no idea what he does. Pimpazz of these forums will do a trigger job for you. I have guessed at how he does it a couple times and both guesses have been wrong, so I have no idea what he does either. That said, I did it in the following way and found it to be exactly what I was looking for. The cost was under a dollar (for the grubscrew) and the activation is now adjustable to anywhere within the first few millimeters of the trigger pull.

First, I shaved off the little nub on the trigger that depresses the microswitch while the trigger is at rest. Then, I drilled a little hole where the nub used to be. Finally, I screwed in a grubscrew and, using the hex hole, adjusted the activation point to where I wanted it to be. Since the trigger is high-grade plastic, I did not have to tap the hole for threads. I did have to apply a little elbow grease to get the grubscrew in there, but it made its own threads once I got it going a little bit. Make sure, when you drill the hole, to use a bit slightly smaller than the grubscrew you will be using.

Here’s how it looks compared to a stock single trigger. You can see where the nub was cut off (a dremel would be great here, but I don’t have one… yet):





Setting The Trigger Stop

There are many ways to do this. Many of which can be found here. A member named bgredjeep provided excellent instructions for this as well in that thread. But, since it is part of the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job , I will mention it here as well. Again, you use a grubscrew, though this time a longer skinny one, and screw it into the place where the trigger return spring goes. They make one that is the perfect length to be able to create the perfect stop point with a properly adjusted activation point. You want to find a spring that fits around the grubscrew loosely and make sure it’s very low tension—you really don’t need much.

Here is what mine looked like:




And here is a completed Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job :




Honestly, this trigger job puts the A-5 trigger pull right on par with that of my Matrixes. Crisp, short and consistent. Now if we can just do something about that kick...

Edit: pics resized upon by request of a mod. If they're too small you can go here to see them.

Edited by Investorguy

What upgrade for what Pos you play in speedball and woodsball. Speedball first. Remember $$$ you can spend differs.
Front man: You want small stuff. You usually don't want a huge Eggy 2 hopper. Try getting something small like a Halo TSA. Also, get a confortable drop forward. They bring your tank down and up for better counterweight and smaller gun. Just keep it small since you'll be hunkered down alot. Keep a small barrel 7" - 9".

Mid Man: Doesn't really matter what hopper. Just make sure what you got is lite. You really need to move when you're mid. Also, remember pods... not alot just enough. 2 or 3. 12" barrel is preferable.

Back man: Get a direct feed hopper so you're sure you always have a ball chambered no matter what. Also, carry alot of pods. Have a pretty good sized barrel like 14". Have plenty of air.

Tape Man: Same as mid.

Woodsball.

You want a flatline. You don't want to carry ALOT of paint, it just depends on how much you shoot. You want to be able to move around and be small when need be.

I hope this helps (and doesn't get deleted)

HPA/Low Pressure/Regulator Info

This post was composed by Myself, with some help from KRL15, for those who need a little guidance on the subject. This post was not meant to be read all the way through. Just for those who need a little bit of info on a certain aspect that has been gone over in this post. The broad topics are printed in a bigger font, bolded, underlined, and italicized. The subtopics are printed in bold.

HPA

Compressed Air/Nitrogen
These terms are all used interchangeably; the only real difference in them is the fact that Compressed air is simply what we are breathing right now (78.1% Nitrogen,19.8% Oxygen, and 2.1% Other Gasses), and Nitrogen is 100% Nitrogen gas.

HPA and Nitrogen are stored in a tank, under pressure, as a gas. HPA and Nitrogen are both very stable. The pressure of HPA and Nitrogen in a tank, will change a little bit with temperature. It will not change pressure as radically as a gas that is liquefied, like CO2.

CO2 is stored in a tank, under pressure, as both a liquid and a gas, simultaneously. about 34% of the VOLUME of a full CO2 tank will be filled with liquid. The remaining 66% of the interior volume, will be filled with saturated gas.

The pressure of CO2 will change drastically with a change in the temperature of the CO2. Further, if straight liquid CO2 is ingested into the gun, potentially dangerous velocity spikes can occur. The pressure of CO2 at 70 degrees (F) will be about 853 PSI.

Why would I consider buying Nitrogen?
Most all serious paintballers will make the switch in there career. Nitrogen is a much more pure gas, as stated above, it is much of what we breathe unlike Co2, which is Carbon Dioxide. Many electronic and mechanical guns require the use of Nitrogen. You will not have any more nasty velocity spikes that can injure other players, which can happen with unregulated Co2.

What are all these measurements for?
The first measurement you will see is the “ci”, or cubic inches of the tank, which is the actual size/internal volume in cubic inches of the tank. This measurement can be anywhere from 47ci to 114ci. The second measurement is pressure. Pressure is expressed as “PSI”, which stands for Pounds per Square Inch. Tanks can be rated to be filled up to 3000psi, 4500psi, or 5000psi.

How many shots can I expect?
The most common way of measuring shots per tank is taking the C.I., or Cubic Inch specification, and multiplying it by 10 for 3000psi rated tanks, 15 for 4500psi rated tanks, and 17 for 5000psi rated tanks. For example; you could expect 680 shots from a 68ci 3000psi tanks. 68ci x 10 = 680 shots.

Steel or Fiber Wrapped?
A Nitrogen tank can be made from one of two materials. A steel tank will be much more durable, and could potentially last longer, while also being much heavier than a fiber wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks are not quite as durable, unless a tank cover is used, which is most definitely recommended with this material. A fiber wrapped tank is much lighter than a steel tank.

Hydro Testing?
A Nitrogen tank must have a hydro re test every 3 years or every 5 years. This period is from the date on the tank. Depending on which Nitrogen tank that you choose, you will need to know if your tank needs to be tested every 3 years, or every 5 years.

Your proshop will not fill a tank if it is past due for a hydro test. If you are buying a used tank, make sure you find out when the tank was last hydrostatically tested, and whether it needs to be tested every 3 or 5 years.

Fiber wrapped tanks have a MAXIMUM life span of 15 years from the date of the original Hydro Test. Any tank, of any type, that fails a Hydro Test, will be destroyed by the company that performs the Hydro Test.

Many fiber tanks will need to be Hydro'd every 3 years. Some of the newer fiber tanks can go 5 years between Hydros.

Steel tanks have NO MAXIMUM life span. So long as a steel tank passes Hydro, it can still be used. Steel tanks must be Hydro'd every 5 years.

A standard hydro testing is $35 from Hydro Testers

How much will I pay for a Nitrogen tank?
The prices on Nitrogen tanks are a little more expensive than what you will pay for a Co2 tank. Unless you are buying a used Nitrogen tank, you will be paying anywhere from $80-$600. The $400-$600 range is probably out of most recreational players league, this being Angel A.I.R. and the Max-Flo systems. To get your Nitrogen tank filled, it is usually $1 every 1000psi. For example; it would cost $3 to get a 68ci 3000psi tank filled. The cubic inch of the tank is not taken into consideration with the cost of filling a tank. So an 114ci 3000psi tank would only cost $3 to fill also, in most cases.

Does a tank come with a regulator?
Yes, almost all tanks will come with a regulator. This is the part that actually screws into your Air Source Adapter, and contains the gauge and fill nipple. These regulators can be preset to a high pressure output of 800-900psi, a low pressure output of 350-450psi, or they can even be an adjustable output regulator.

What are some good brands of Nitrogen systems?
Some of the good brands which are in the mid price ranges are Crossfire, Centerflag, and WorrGas. Unless you are daring, you will want to stay away from new companies, they usually have some bugs to work out. Make sure the brand of tank you are getting comes with a good quality regulator on top. I have heard many negative remarks about the ACI and PMI tank regulators.

Low Pressure

What is low pressure?
A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono.

Why go low pressure?
Low pressure can have numerous benefits such as: more shots per tank, less ball chopping, less recoil, better consistency, and of course the bragging rights of knowing your gun has a low operating pressure and can achieve all of these things.

Can my 98 Custom be a low pressure marker?
Yes it can. With the purchase of Tippmann’s Comp-Air kit, a quality regulator, and a Nitrogen tank, your 98 Custom can run at 350 psi or lower.

What about using the RT with the Low Pressure kit?
The RT and Low Pressure kit will work very nicely together. Just use the RT kit's power tube, and the LP kit's valve. If you do have any problems with the RT not resetting, you may need a larger external RT hose. However, owners of newer 98 Customs should have no problems.

What does the Tippmann Comp Air kit accomplish?
The Tippmann Comp Air kit gives you a lighter rear drive spring, lighter rear bolt, high flow valve, low pressure chamber, and a vertical adapter with t-fitting. With all of these things installed on your 98 Custom along with a regulator, your 98 Custom is capable of operating at 350psi or lower.

Can my Tippmann A-5 be a low pressure marker?
Tippmann claims that it will have a Comp-Air kit out for the A-5 soon. Until then, the lowest pressure that an A-5 can run at, is about 600-700 PSI, without starving the cyclone feed.

Regulators

What does a Regulator do?
A regulator regulates the air flow to your marker. A regulator will take the high pressure gas that is in the tank, and will step it down to a lower pressure, so that it can be safely used in a marker.

Most regulators are adjustable, meaning you can control the operating pressure, in psi, of your marker. Most regulators are meant to be used with Nitrogen. Some regulators can be used with Co2. One regulator that works well with CO2 is the Palmer Stabilizer. The Stabilizer works equally well with Nitrogen and Co2.

What are all the holes for?
A regulator can have up to three different holes. The first hole or port, usually located on one side of the regulator, can be for the airline coming into the regulator. The second hole or port, usually located on the reverse side from the first hole or port, can be used as an outgoing airline (in a female regulator setup) or a port for a gauge. And the third hole or port, usually located on the bottom of the regulator, can be that of an allen wrench adjustment to tweak the operating pressure of the regulator.

Do I need a gauge?
If you want to know approximately what output pressure your regulator is set at, all the time, then having a gauge on your reg is for you. If you really don’t care what pressure you’re at, just as long as it works, then you really don’t need a gauge. Micro gauges, which you will most commonly find on regulators, aren’t as accurate as bigger gauges. Remember that any gauge is most accurate at its mid point. If you are planning on running at 300psi, buy a 600psi gauge.

Some specs on some commonly known quality regulators.

MacDev 03 Gladiator - The Gladiator is a very consistent, very high flow regulator. It is adjustable from 0-700psi and can be used with Nitrogen or Co2. Although this is a very nice regulator, it is also very high maintenance. Any piece of debris that gets into the reg could cause velocity spikes or drop off. You must keep this regulator very clean. They cost about $80 and can be found at MacDev

AKALMP Sidewinder - The Sidewinder already has a great companies name behind of it. Who else to buy a regulator from then AKALMP, the low pressure experts? The Sidewinder is very unique, it has a swiveling end cap that allows the regulator to be setup in many different configurations. It also comes in 3 different sizes to meet your needs. This regulator is designed for low pressure operation. They cost about $95 and can be found at AKALMP

Bob Long Torpedo – The Bob Long Torpedo is a very known regulator. It is low maintenance, very consistent, and easy on the wallet. If Bob Long puts his name behind it, then you can be sure its worth the money you put out. This is the cheapest regulator mentioned here for about $55, and it can be found at Shop4Paintball.com

Palmer Stabilizer – The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here’s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): “The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.” The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit

Other quality regs are the Air America brand regulators, such as the Vigilante. Although I don’t have any personal experience with this brand, a lot of people have told me many positive things about them.

Hope this helps.

MILKMAN

UPGRADING YOUR MARKER:  COMPLETE FAQ.

 

 

 

I am writing this to help the people so they won’t have to post as many questions, although there is nothing wrong with that. It will help keep the forum fast though. This FAQ will cover effective barrel length, the best ways to store paint, what upgrades you may want to consider, types of air lines, etc.

 

1-      BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)

 

J+J Ceramic

Stiff!

All American

Tear Drop

Progressive

Abrades

Quit Riot

Nite Stik

Stealth

Big Shot

Boom Stick

Freak Kit

Freak Junior

Evil Pipe

Flat line - A-5

Flat line - 98 Custom

 

BARRELS YOU WILL WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM

 

GTA Sniper Barrel

Thunder Pig Barrels

 

2-      CARING FOR YOUR PAINT-

A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…

 

B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity.

C-Keep rotating the bags

 

D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)

 

E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.

 

3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.

 

 

               STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.

 

              MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at www.countypaintball.com . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.

 

           MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on www.ebay.com . I have not found them anywhere else.

 

 

4-      POTENTIAL UPGRADES-

 

R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.

 

Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.

 

Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.

 

Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.

 

Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.

 

Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.

 

New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.

 

New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.

 

Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.

 

Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked

 

Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.

 

RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)

 

Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)

 

Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.

 

HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers…

10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank

15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank

20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank

 

Foe more information on HPa/n2 systems, please check the MILKMANS sticky.

 

There are many more upgrades, but that is all that I can think of right now…and I’m tired… I know I didn’t list all the barrels either, but I will add on to both at a later time.

 

Accuracy

 

Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy

·        Good, fresh, non deformed paint

·        Paintballs without paint spill on them

·        Clean paintballs

·        Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good

·        Clean barrel

·        No spurs in barrel

·        Good Paint To Barrel Bore match

 

Paintball sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html

 

Barrel Sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html

 

Remember, have fun and be safe!