How to disassemble the 98 custom.

mymaro wrote: when i put mine back together i found out that it is easiest to put the handle in at an angle cause then they suck together alot easyier i found that if u try lining up all pins at first the handle wouldnt go together and the front site spring would pop out if you gave it alittle tap to line up so put the handle in their spot first at a slite angle just enough to slide the cocker through the slot this is how i put it back together without taking the asa off  i know this looks confusing  it does to me but it is so hard to describe this

i have the same problem and it drives me nuts. i can never get the handle to come together but i will try ur technique. thank you thank you

great post... i woluld like to see one about dissassembling the A-5.

SeaWolf wrote: Customizer wrote: what do u mean by degassed? No CO2...

 

Or compressed gas of whatever kind.  We played this weekend with compressed air (special tank required but no other mods) and it worked same as CO2 except NO FREEZING. Excellent. Also easy to take a small group out for woodsball as you can take an old set of scuba tanks with you and fill the tanks in the woods. We are new, but learning as we go.

TorontoPBGuy

Okay, i took apart my gun last night and everything went fine. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the endcap did not fit in nice and snug. It came out of the back of the gun just a little bit. So, I took it apart again and looked to see if the cap was fitting in the threads right, and it was. I do not think this will pose a problem, but has anybody else had this happen to them? Thanks

Hat Trick wrote: from my own personal experience, DO NOT overtighten the power tube bolts-it will rip out the threads and your velocity will be psychotically off each time you shoot it without the bolt in, and it wont recock itself every 2 shots.

When I was putting mine back in I started to tighten up one of the screws and just the top of the thread like in the one like just fell out, I didn't use pressure or anything when putting it in. Now I have to push the one screw in a tiny bit for it to catch but it still tightens up just fine so I think im ok.

The reason for threading the screw all the way in, I can only imagine, is so when you remove the receiver halves, it does not damage the valve threads, in the power tube. Aluminum is a very soft metal. Especially so, in these guns.

As for "the gun won't fire now" i'd recommend describing the symptoms a bit more... do you have air leakage? Will the bolt react, but the paint not project? Details are key here...

hey i have a question i have the 98 custom ultra basic ..... i dissasembled and re-assembled it but the back reciever half will not go on correctly .... but when i oppend it up the sear is popped up  so i took it out and replaced it still would not close ... after hours i just left the sear spring out and closed it back up  if you could help that would be great

 Side note I know more about taking things apart and putting them back together (thats my day job) than the whole computer thing. My apologies for the above large font 

Thanks for the ingo guys it really helped me alot :)

Is anyone able to tell me what parts you would recommend to be replaced for a major service of this gun?