Customized SL 68 II

yak!tori wrote: How many pumps w/ a 42 rd hopper do you see at your field?

I 've seen a couple phantoms at my field.

I was going to put a vert air and phantom feed on mine.... then I was going to mod it to look like a shotgun..... then I realized I dont use it much.... now I don't know what I'm going to do... back on topic, yours looks great, nice job.

That looks great, what did you do to paint it?  And how did you get the valve out?

Mehs wrote: That looks great, what did you do to paint it?  And how did you get the valve out?

 

thanks for all the comments guys. 

To get the internals out.  In this order I do:

1.  loosen the barrel screw, pull out the barrel w/ pump rod and front bolt and spring attached to the barrel.  It sticks into the end of the barrel and seals w/ the oring on the front bolt. 

2.  Tap the gun on the palm of my hand until the hammer slides out the front of the gun, set it aside w/ the other internals.

3.  Take an allen key and insert it into the valve cap on the back of the gun.  Unscrew it counterclockwise, set it aside.  The valve spring will fall out easily. 

4.  Use a chopstick, or a pen or pencil (nothing metal as to damage the valve stem), push it from the front of the gun out the back.  Thats how you remove the valve/valve stem/cupseal.  Its all one piece.

 

 

Thats it.  That is all the internals the gun has.  You can remove the trigger too if you want, but there is no need to.  Its kinda a pain to get it in and out and get the trigger return spring back in place.

For painting.  I filed it and milled it to my desire, sand the original finish w/o removing it completely.  That acts as a primer.  Stuff paper towels into the holes that you want to keep the paint out of (the back, the front and remove the safety and put paper towel plugs in them as well. 

I used my 12g changer wrapped in tape to hold in my hand and rotate while painting.  I used krylon hammered finish spray paint.  Apply 2-3 Light coats w/in about 5 minutes apart.  Hang dry for 24 hours.  Used a clear coat protective finish to go over the paint in the same fashion as I applied the paint.  2-3 coats, hang dry for 24 hours.  For better results, it should be cured for a week or more.  Start off in hot temps, then move to cooler temps (~75-80F)  And allow to cure for a week or more.  The hard part is not touching the gun after youve painted it. 

 

Edited by yak!tori

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4 7254&item=7163227317&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Woooo, I love being validated.

PS. Yours is still the bomb. <-- Thats right, I said bomb.

thanks guys.  So you found the gun eh on ebay. 

I saw them at the same starting bid and I went ahead and used buy it now to avoid bidding it out w/ someone.  And 50 bucks to me was acceptable. 

I will give you some advice though.  Be prepared to clean that bugger.  Painted Forest must have had the worst on site gun tech.  Disassemble it, wipe it down inside and out, put some pbgun oil on all the seals/moving parts.  Slap it back together.  It will shoot fine. 

You got yourself a great deal.

yak!tori wrote: tippman666 wrote: i dont like it. why did you deface an old school gun?   ya, youre right, I shouldve just left it w/ the "painted forest" etched sight rail, worn stock barrel, rusted screws, dirty internals, and nearly worn off paintjob.  It wouldve looked so much better.    I didnt deface it.  I restored it.  Why the negativity?  If it was going to remain as is, I wouldnt have bought it and cleaned and relubed, and restored the gun at all.   I am preserving oldschool if anything.  It is still oldschool.  How many pumps w/ a 42 rd hopper do you see at your field?

Well worded.

I just had an idea: paint the pump handle the same color as the gun!