For all you with E-Blades 27bps

†Sniper† wrote:

big difference between 27 Cps and 27 Bps

is it cycles per second and balls per second? does cycles mean without paint?

Nice idea........

A-5
E-Grip
JCS Dual Trigger
DOP X-CORE 8 stage x-chamber
Lapco Bigshot 14" Beadblasted

Optional setup:
R/T
Dead on Blade trigger

thecorpseman wrote:

Can you PULL 27cps?

yeah right.

thecorpseman wrote:

Can you PULL 27cps?

can my trigger bounce 27bps?

E-Tek Ego

Wow! That is pretty spiffin. Great job explaining and very thorough, I'll will have to see about trying that at my local shop since I know the guy pretty well.

Pumpker'd; (V.) When a pump player runs up and shoots you at point blank range because you thought 20bps made you good.

I have my cocker set at 27 cps. I hear a lot that factory fast is the best. Thats wrong. Here is how to set up your gun for maximum speed, although without the parts I have you cant set it to 27.

cdel - this is the most important setting, and it is not set correctly on factory fast. Rasing the cdel smooths out firing and gives less kick, therefore you can run a higher lpr, and lower tirgger filters, giving you more speed.

Start at factory fast with your gun set up, and shoot over a chrono, rasing your cdel. As you rasie your cdel, your velocity will raise as well. keep rasing the cdel until your velocity doesnt go any higher. At this point stop, or stop if your cdel is past 7 or 8.

Lpr - For maximum cycle rate your lpr must be high. Turn up the lpr high, like 70-85 psi. Dont go over 90 psi or the solenoid might blow.

Coff - The eye does not override the off setting, and this is where you can gain some speed. Keep turning down the coff while firing until you see drop off. Make sure your shooting fast and no drop off occurs.

Trigger filters - I have mine very low, at 2. By rasing your cdel you are able to lower the filters a ton.

There is also another theory im working on that would allow a coff time extremly low, at about 5 or 6. It has to do with the time it takes for the hamer to open the valve and the air to travel though the bolt. In theory the bolt could still be closing as the hammer is hitting the valve, so you can subtract that time. However it would almost be open bolt at this point.

Well, hope I helped some people. I can set up a stock cocker to rip with no bunce, and you dont have to have the trigger very stiff like most people think. Very Happy

Edited by Mike Barch