98 Custom Not ReCocking*new Problem!*

my gun does this too but instead of uncocking all the way it cocks about 3/4 of the way and then stops..im not sure why

Shadowminion wrote: Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

The tippmann factory uses RED loctite, and infact sent me a bottle of it when I had to swap out valves myself.

my 98 custom is a little bit older and i dont recall it coming with loctite on the valve screws which i could be wrong about but my little brothers is a lot newer and did come with red loctite on them

also another problem that can cause uncocking is using the wrong oil to lubricate your gun. petroleum based oils can cause rubber components like certain o rings to swell up. while i dont know if the rear bolt o ring is rubber or not i have heard of them swelling up and not going smoothly in and out of the powertube robbing it of velocity needed to recock

FA22RaptorF22 wrote: I believe there may be many types of red because on all the tippmann's i have gotten, there has been red crap filling up the valve screw holes. Unless it wasn't locktite...but it must be because they give you a little white tube of red locktite with many of the parts you can buy from them...ie ex chamber...

Sorry shadow, but this one time I am with Raptor. I have yet to find any blue loctite on any of the Tippmann's I have worked on. There is a possibility that it was PURPLE, but I have never seen blue. With that said, I always replace it with blue

Another with that said, I have also never needed to use head to remove it, but the loctite from the factory is by FAR stronger than blue, have a red color, but does not ALWAYS require heat.

Loctite 242 is blue and is removable , is there a dispute with that statement ?

Is there a dispute that Tippmann uses loctite in the assembly of their markers , specifically holding the CVX valve screws in place ? 

I dont understand what your question or whatever is , please clarify any information I've presented you feel is wrong . Oh, I see , actually Tippmann uses a wicking grade of loctite (green, and very low viscosity) , but its still loctite . Point is , they use a removable loctite . I've been using Loctite products since they came to market in the mid 70's and am quite familiar with most of their holding/sealing products

  I doubt they've ever used High strength loctite on any of their fastners , you see loctite 272 (Red) can only be removed with the application of heat (as in a torch) , and will shear a 1/4-20 bolt off , but hey ,if you want to use 272 , more power to Ya , Yer gonna need it  !!

Anyways , like I said in your other thread where you felt you werent getting the answers you were looking for Chris , look to the Gold and Platinum forum members here for a wealth of information . A lot of the other members here know quite a bit too , and some just think they do , so you have to sort of "Weed-out" a lot of whats said . I would not completely trust even the virtue of being "Gold member" , since the forum went to a post count criteria for that "Honor"(?). If you hear it from several Plat's , you can almost take it to the bank !!

If you want more information on "CO2 vs. HPA" I suggest doing a search on the topic , there was a thread last week that covered the pro's and cons of both power sources quite comprehensively .

I'm still betting on shoot down . 

Edited by Shadowminion - 03 July 2006 at 8:33pm

Do they tell you in the manual that the cover for the cocking knob is made from plastic !? Believe me, it is .

Same with the CVX valve ,,, they use loctite to keep the screws in place , . There is collectively well over 100 years of experience from the gold and platinum forum members who've already posted in this thread , Pay attention and learn .

 

(Yer about two sentences away from being called a "Snot nosed Noob")

Condensation is normal if you're shooting CO2 .

The infrequent recocking problem , could be that condensate actually freezing inside your marker creating an obstruction to the motion of your rear bolt . (any forign object in the path of your rear bolt could cause this , as well as misalignment of parts , Ie; cvx valve loose , dirt/grit  )

Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

Another  (and more likely) cause of your recocking problem might be this , when you shoot with CO2 rapidly , the CO2 pressure in your tank lowers as the tank temperature drops , this is called  "Shootdown"  . The Tippmann is made to operate on High pressure , 850-900 PSI , so when the pressure drops much below 700 PSI (as it will do when shooting rapidly for any length of time (30 to 60 shots ?? ) there wont be enough pressure to cycle the marker properly . 

Try using shorter bursts , de-tuning your RT to a lower RoF , or shooting in semi mode . If you absolutely need , or want to sustain a high Rate of Fire , about the best option is switching to HPA (Nitro) .

It depends on your personal style of play and your pocketbook really ...

Something Might be freezing up with fast firing of the RT but that seems unlikely (I dont have an RT so i dont know)

I shoot fast alot.

When mine does it its usually at the begginning of a game or after I havent shot for a while sometimes its like not cocked all the way and i cock it and it shoots fine.

pooperscooper wrote: My gun has done this for a long time. Just recock it its no big deal If it gets more frequent and annoying then try to fix it, but mine only does it like 2-3 times all day

I'm always shooting fast therefore, the problem happens quite frequently.