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Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

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KRL15 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31 October 2003 at 11:03am

In order to consolidate Sticky Posts, we are going to do here, what we have started up in "New Players".

Thanks, Folks!

Edited by KRL15
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paintballer44 View Drop Down
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I am writing this to help the people so they won’t have to post as many questions, although there is nothing wrong with that. It will help keep the forum fast though. This FAQ will cover effective barrel length, the best ways to store paint, what upgrades you may want to consider, types of air lines, etc.


1-      BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)


J+J Ceramic


All American

Tear Drop



Quit Riot

Nite Stik


Big Shot

Boom Stick

Freak Kit

Freak Junior

Evil Pipe

Flat line - A-5

Flat line - 98 Custom




GTA Sniper Barrel

Thunder Pig Barrels



A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…


B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity.

C-Keep rotating the bags


D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)


E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.


3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.



               STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.


              MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at www.countypaintball.com . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.


           MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on www.ebay.com . I have not found them anywhere else.





R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.


Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.


Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.


Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.


Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.


Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.


New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.


New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.


Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.


Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked


Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.


RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)


Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)


Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.


HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers…

10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank

15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank

20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank


Foe more information on HPa/n2 systems, please check the MILKMANS sticky.


There are many more upgrades, but that is all that I can think of right now…and I’m tired… I know I didn’t list all the barrels either, but I will add on to both at a later time.




Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy

·        Good, fresh, non deformed paint

·        Paintballs without paint spill on them

·        Clean paintballs

·        Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good

·        Clean barrel

·        No spurs in barrel

·        Good Paint To Barrel Bore match


Paintball sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html


Barrel Sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html


Remember, have fun and be safe!

United States Marine Corps

Semper Fi!

What am I doing here? I don't even play paintball anymore!

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tgaffner View Drop Down
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I see more and more threads about this EVERYDAY! So, I decided to make a post about it so they can be kept to a minimum. I stickied this so it will always be here. But, if any mod has a problem with this being stickied, I will happily move it.

This post is about choosing the right kind/brand of paintball for using in a Flatline Barrel System.

The Flatline:

The Flatline Barrel system is a very popular barrel upgrade on 98's and A-5's. But, scince this barrel has a curve or arch in it, it will performe better with Medium-Small bore paint.

Which Paint:

For a Flatline, you will need to use a good quality ball. And, they should be a Medium-Small bore paint. Some good brads of paint are the following:

Marbilizers: They used to be the best. But, they must have cleaned the machines, misscalculated the ingrediants, or changed the temperature in the building. Because now new Marbilizers are not performing very good. They are comming with flat spots and the paint is not as think and heavy as it used to be. So if you are buying marbs, be carefull.

Evil: Right now I beleive Evil's are the best brand of paint for the Flatline. They work AWSOME in the Flatline. Plus, they have a VERY think paint and bright shell.

Draxxus(Diablo) Blaze: Some people are having good luck wioth Blaze paintball. I use them and they work GREAT. They have a very thivk and tuff shell and the paint is pretty decent. It's not as think as Evil, but it still shows up good. Blaze, as well as other Draxxus paint, is a very small bore paint.

32* Team Colors: I myself have not used it with the Flatlien Barrel System. I have used it on "Regular" Barrels, and they were NOT very good at all. But, I hear when they are used in the Flatline , they rock! I will try thses next time I wip ou the Ol' A-5, then I will give you a report.

Those are some of the more popular brands of paint for both the A-5 and 98 Flatline Barrel System.

If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so!


Edited by tgaffner
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HPA/Low Pressure/Regulator Info

This post was composed by Myself, with some help from KRL15, for those who need a little guidance on the subject. This post was not meant to be read all the way through. Just for those who need a little bit of info on a certain aspect that has been gone over in this post. The broad topics are printed in a bigger font, bolded, underlined, and italicized. The subtopics are printed in bold.


Compressed Air/Nitrogen
These terms are all used interchangeably; the only real difference in them is the fact that Compressed air is simply what we are breathing right now (78.1% Nitrogen,19.8% Oxygen, and 2.1% Other Gasses), and Nitrogen is 100% Nitrogen gas.

HPA and Nitrogen are stored in a tank, under pressure, as a gas. HPA and Nitrogen are both very stable. The pressure of HPA and Nitrogen in a tank, will change a little bit with temperature. It will not change pressure as radically as a gas that is liquefied, like CO2.

CO2 is stored in a tank, under pressure, as both a liquid and a gas, simultaneously. about 34% of the VOLUME of a full CO2 tank will be filled with liquid. The remaining 66% of the interior volume, will be filled with saturated gas.

The pressure of CO2 will change drastically with a change in the temperature of the CO2. Further, if straight liquid CO2 is ingested into the gun, potentially dangerous velocity spikes can occur. The pressure of CO2 at 70 degrees (F) will be about 853 PSI.

Why would I consider buying Nitrogen?
Most all serious paintballers will make the switch in there career. Nitrogen is a much more pure gas, as stated above, it is much of what we breathe unlike Co2, which is Carbon Dioxide. Many electronic and mechanical guns require the use of Nitrogen. You will not have any more nasty velocity spikes that can injure other players, which can happen with unregulated Co2.

What are all these measurements for?
The first measurement you will see is the “ci”, or cubic inches of the tank, which is the actual size/internal volume in cubic inches of the tank. This measurement can be anywhere from 47ci to 114ci. The second measurement is pressure. Pressure is expressed as “PSI”, which stands for Pounds per Square Inch. Tanks can be rated to be filled up to 3000psi, 4500psi, or 5000psi.

How many shots can I expect?
The most common way of measuring shots per tank is taking the C.I., or Cubic Inch specification, and multiplying it by 10 for 3000psi rated tanks, 15 for 4500psi rated tanks, and 17 for 5000psi rated tanks. For example; you could expect 680 shots from a 68ci 3000psi tanks. 68ci x 10 = 680 shots.

Steel or Fiber Wrapped?
A Nitrogen tank can be made from one of two materials. A steel tank will be much more durable, and could potentially last longer, while also being much heavier than a fiber wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks are not quite as durable, unless a tank cover is used, which is most definitely recommended with this material. A fiber wrapped tank is much lighter than a steel tank.

Hydro Testing?
A Nitrogen tank must have a hydro re test every 3 years or every 5 years. This period is from the date on the tank. Depending on which Nitrogen tank that you choose, you will need to know if your tank needs to be tested every 3 years, or every 5 years.

Your proshop will not fill a tank if it is past due for a hydro test. If you are buying a used tank, make sure you find out when the tank was last hydrostatically tested, and whether it needs to be tested every 3 or 5 years.

Fiber wrapped tanks have a MAXIMUM life span of 15 years from the date of the original Hydro Test. Any tank, of any type, that fails a Hydro Test, will be destroyed by the company that performs the Hydro Test.

Many fiber tanks will need to be Hydro'd every 3 years. Some of the newer fiber tanks can go 5 years between Hydros.

Steel tanks have NO MAXIMUM life span. So long as a steel tank passes Hydro, it can still be used. Steel tanks must be Hydro'd every 5 years.

A standard hydro testing is $35 from Hydro Testers

How much will I pay for a Nitrogen tank?
The prices on Nitrogen tanks are a little more expensive than what you will pay for a Co2 tank. Unless you are buying a used Nitrogen tank, you will be paying anywhere from $80-$600. The $400-$600 range is probably out of most recreational players league, this being Angel A.I.R. and the Max-Flo systems. To get your Nitrogen tank filled, it is usually $1 every 1000psi. For example; it would cost $3 to get a 68ci 3000psi tank filled. The cubic inch of the tank is not taken into consideration with the cost of filling a tank. So an 114ci 3000psi tank would only cost $3 to fill also, in most cases.

Does a tank come with a regulator?
Yes, almost all tanks will come with a regulator. This is the part that actually screws into your Air Source Adapter, and contains the gauge and fill nipple. These regulators can be preset to a high pressure output of 800-900psi, a low pressure output of 350-450psi, or they can even be an adjustable output regulator.

What are some good brands of Nitrogen systems?
Some of the good brands which are in the mid price ranges are Crossfire, Centerflag, and WorrGas. Unless you are daring, you will want to stay away from new companies, they usually have some bugs to work out. Make sure the brand of tank you are getting comes with a good quality regulator on top. I have heard many negative remarks about the ACI and PMI tank regulators.

Low Pressure

What is low pressure?
A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono.

Why go low pressure?
Low pressure can have numerous benefits such as: more shots per tank, less ball chopping, less recoil, better consistency, and of course the bragging rights of knowing your gun has a low operating pressure and can achieve all of these things.

Can my 98 Custom be a low pressure marker?
Yes it can. With the purchase of Tippmann’s Comp-Air kit, a quality regulator, and a Nitrogen tank, your 98 Custom can run at 350 psi or lower.

What about using the RT with the Low Pressure kit?
The RT and Low Pressure kit will work very nicely together. Just use the RT kit's power tube, and the LP kit's valve. If you do have any problems with the RT not resetting, you may need a larger external RT hose. However, owners of newer 98 Customs should have no problems.

What does the Tippmann Comp Air kit accomplish?
The Tippmann Comp Air kit gives you a lighter rear drive spring, lighter rear bolt, high flow valve, low pressure chamber, and a vertical adapter with t-fitting. With all of these things installed on your 98 Custom along with a regulator, your 98 Custom is capable of operating at 350psi or lower.

Can my Tippmann A-5 be a low pressure marker?
Tippmann claims that it will have a Comp-Air kit out for the A-5 soon. Until then, the lowest pressure that an A-5 can run at, is about 600-700 PSI, without starving the cyclone feed.


What does a Regulator do?
A regulator regulates the air flow to your marker. A regulator will take the high pressure gas that is in the tank, and will step it down to a lower pressure, so that it can be safely used in a marker.

Most regulators are adjustable, meaning you can control the operating pressure, in psi, of your marker. Most regulators are meant to be used with Nitrogen. Some regulators can be used with Co2. One regulator that works well with CO2 is the Palmer Stabilizer. The Stabilizer works equally well with Nitrogen and Co2.

What are all the holes for?
A regulator can have up to three different holes. The first hole or port, usually located on one side of the regulator, can be for the airline coming into the regulator. The second hole or port, usually located on the reverse side from the first hole or port, can be used as an outgoing airline (in a female regulator setup) or a port for a gauge. And the third hole or port, usually located on the bottom of the regulator, can be that of an allen wrench adjustment to tweak the operating pressure of the regulator.

Do I need a gauge?
If you want to know approximately what output pressure your regulator is set at, all the time, then having a gauge on your reg is for you. If you really don’t care what pressure you’re at, just as long as it works, then you really don’t need a gauge. Micro gauges, which you will most commonly find on regulators, aren’t as accurate as bigger gauges. Remember that any gauge is most accurate at its mid point. If you are planning on running at 300psi, buy a 600psi gauge.

Some specs on some commonly known quality regulators.

MacDev 03 Gladiator - The Gladiator is a very consistent, very high flow regulator. It is adjustable from 0-700psi and can be used with Nitrogen or Co2. Although this is a very nice regulator, it is also very high maintenance. Any piece of debris that gets into the reg could cause velocity spikes or drop off. You must keep this regulator very clean. They cost about $80 and can be found at MacDev

AKALMP Sidewinder - The Sidewinder already has a great companies name behind of it. Who else to buy a regulator from then AKALMP, the low pressure experts? The Sidewinder is very unique, it has a swiveling end cap that allows the regulator to be setup in many different configurations. It also comes in 3 different sizes to meet your needs. This regulator is designed for low pressure operation. They cost about $95 and can be found at AKALMP

Bob Long Torpedo – The Bob Long Torpedo is a very known regulator. It is low maintenance, very consistent, and easy on the wallet. If Bob Long puts his name behind it, then you can be sure its worth the money you put out. This is the cheapest regulator mentioned here for about $55, and it can be found at Shop4Paintball.com

Palmer Stabilizer – The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here’s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): “The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.” The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit

Other quality regs are the Air America brand regulators, such as the Vigilante. Although I don’t have any personal experience with this brand, a lot of people have told me many positive things about them.

Hope this helps.


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Big list of 98 upgrades & accessories.

Most of you probably remember this from before the forum changed, but there are some who haven't seen it, so here it is. This is an alphabetical list of upgrades that are available for either the 98c or m98. Thanks to XenoSabre and The Silencer for helping me make it.

32 Degrees rear cocking bolt w/ beavertail for m98/98c. http://www.32ice.com/32parts/html/m98cockingbolt.asp

Air Tipps butt stock with rear velocity adjuster(RVA) for m98/98c. url=http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1120/

Air Tipps RVA for m98/98c. http://www.airtipps.com/rva.html

Air Tipps stainless steel screw set for m98/98c. http://www.airtipps.com/screwkit.html

Air Tipps T.O.S.K. for m98/98c. http://www.airtipps.com/tosk.html

Allen Paintball Products rubber fore grip for m98/98c. http://www.allenpaintball.com/MDL98GRIP.html

Ballistic Sports AR100 clip for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1931/  

Ballistic Sports AR100 basic sight kit for m98/98c. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/ar100-b asic-sight-kit.htm 

Ballistic Sports AR100 complete sight kit for m98/98c. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/ar100-c omplete-sight-kit.htm   

Ballistic Sports AR100 componets for m98/98c . http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/ar100-i ndividual-components.htm  

Ballistic Sports aluminum blade trigger for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1529/  

Ballistic Sports electro-pneumatic kit for m98/98c. This product is not currently available. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/925/  

Ballistic Sports Wide double trigger for 98c. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bs_wide _alum_double_trigger.htm  

Ballistic Sports Custom Suppressor (not real suppressor) for m98/98c. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98items/tippmann _m98_suppressor.htm  

Ballistic Sports narrow double trigger. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/narrow_ double_trigger.htm

Ballistic Sports M-16 hard stock for m98/98c. http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/m98-m16 -hard-stock.htm

Ballistic Sports RVA http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/926/  

Ballistic Sports Spee-T-Cocker http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/924/  

Blackpoint Engineering combat folding stock for m98/98c. http://www.bp-usa.com/98_custom.htm  

Blackpoint Engineering fixed length folding stock for m98/98c. http://www.bp-usa.com/98_custom.htm  

Blackpoint Engineering VooDoo folding stock for m98/98c. http://www.bp-usa.com/98_custom.htm  

CMI International expansion chamber kit for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1832/  

Dead On Paintball double trigger w/ guard for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1832/  

Dead On Paintball front grip for m98/98c. http://www.deadonpaintball.com/mall/FrontGripM98&C.asp  

Dead On Paintball Pro-Seal front bolt & precision power tube for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1614/  

Dead On Paintball Pro-Seal front bolt & precision power tube for m98. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1615/  

Dead On Paintball rocket cock, aluminum, m98/98c. http://www.deadonpaintball.com/mall/RocketCockAlum.asp  

Dead On Paintball Rocket Cock http://www.deadonpaintball.com/mall/RocketCockGFC.asp  

Dead On Paintball RVA for m98/98c. http://www.deadonpaintball.com/mall/RVAM98.asp  

Full Boar RC (rear cocking)/RVA for m98/98c. http://pbreview.com/products/504/  

Full Boar Shadow (flush cocking) for m98/98c. http://pbreview.com/products/883/  

Full Boar side cover kit (side cover only) for m98/98c. Sorry, no link yet.

Full Boar site rail for m98/98c http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/siterails.asp  

Hole In The Wall Paintball 98c body, chrome plated, nickel plated, black nickel plated. http://www.ariscustoms.com/htiw-98cbody.htm  

Hole In The Wall Paintball "Naked Lady" double trigger for m98/98c. http://www.ariscustoms.com/htiw-doubletrigger.htm  

JMJ Concepts drop forward/trigger guard for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/474/  

Lapco barrel adapter, cocker to m98 for m98/98c . http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/699/

Lapco adapter, old to new m98 for m98/98c.
http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item= 3014

Lapco barrel adapter, Pro-lite to m98. http://pbreview.com/products/reviews/699/  

Lapco barrel adapter, Spyder to m98 for m98c/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/699/  

Lapco stainless steel cocking knob for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1833/  

Lapco direct feed, black or nickel plated, for m98/98c. http://www.lapcopaintball.com/tippmann.html  

Lapco double trigger guard,black or nickel plated, for m98/98c. http://www.lapcopaintball.com/tippmann.html  

Lapco dovetail sight rail, black or nickel plated, for 98c.

Lapco dovetail sight rail, black or nickel plated, for m98. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1008/  

Lapco foregrip, black or nickel plated for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1012/  

Lapco rear velocity adjuster for m98/98c. http://pbreview.com/products/reviews/1004/  

Maddmann Spring kit for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1022/  

ProMark Products BSI stick trigger and guard for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1574/  

Pro team Products Commando F/X Car Stock for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/696/  

Pro Team Products Commando F/X Fore End for m98/98c. http://proteamdirect.com/bcomfxplusfo.html  

Pro Team Products commando F/X sight for m98/98c. http://proteamdirect.com/bmod98comfxs.html  

Pro Team Products Hyper Star bolt for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/538/  

Pro Team Products Powerfeed for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1002/  

Pro Team Products Pro-Feed for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1002/  

Pro Team Products RVA for m98/98c. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/rva.asp  

Pro Team Products Sniper F/X Stock for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1795/  

Psycho Ballistics double trigger for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/881/  

Psycho Ballistics double trigger for m98. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1011/  

Psycho Ballistics Rocket Cock for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/385/  

Psycho Ballistics RVA for m98/98c. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/rva.asp  

Psycho Ballistics thumb screws for m98/98c http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item= 1112 

Redz neoprene marker cover for m98/98c. http://www.redzcomfort.com/cgi-bin/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Scr een=PROD&Store_Code=RCG&Product_Code=GB-200&Cate gory_Code=PG  

Tippmann Flatline barrel system for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/35/  

Tippmann E-bolt Kit for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1156/  

Tippmann Electronic sear kit for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/555/  

Tippmann expansion chamber kit for m98/98c. http://tippmann.com/proshop/expcham.asp  

Tippmann double trigger kit for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/553/  

Tippmann Hypur side cocking kit for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/426/  

Tippmann low pressure kit for 98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/554/  

Tippmann metal flatline shroud for m98/98c. Sorry, no link yet.

Tippmann Model 98 parts kit for m98/98c. http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item= 1040

Tippmann padded gun case for m98/98c and anything else that will fit. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/cases.asp  

Tippmann rear velocity adjuster for m98/98c. http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1006/  

Tippmann sight rail adapter for m98/98c. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/siterails.asp  

Tippmann Techline safety button, color anodized, for m98/98c. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/misc.asp  

Tippmann vertical adapter for m98/98c. http://www.tippmann.com/proshop/expcham.asp  

Toxic Performance double trigger kit, black, silver, for 98c. http://pbreview.com/products/reviews/947/  

Let me know if you have anything to add to this post. If you know of an upgrade or accessory that's not here, please do let me know, and I'll add it. Thanks for activating the rest of the links KRL.

Links last added Nov. 22, 2003.

Big List Of A-5 Upgrades & Accessories

The Silencer made most of this on Tippmann Centre. Xenosabre also helped out with some of this on Tippmann Centre. I activated the links and added the colored company names on this forum.

I'm still working on this and adding products, so if you have any suggestions or a product to add, let me know.

We will not yet include barrels, drop forwards, and some other items.

Allen Paintball Products

Allen Paintball Products A-5 sight feeder.


Air Tipps Combat Sling

Air Tipps Detachable Combat Sling

Air Tipps Stainless Steal Screw Set

Ballistic Sports

Ballistic Sports A-5 autococker breech:
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-auto cocker-breech.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 car stock:
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-cars tock.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 fake supressor:

Ballistic Sports A-5 M-16 hard stock.
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-m16- hardstock.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 rear velocity adjuster:
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-rear -velocity-adjuster.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 Spyder breech:
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-spyd er-breech.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 velocity screw upgrade:
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/a-5-items/a-5-velo city-screw-upgrade.htm

Blackpoint Engineering

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 laser sight.

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 rear peep sight:

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA combat stock

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA MP folding stock

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA VooDoo stock

Blackpoint Engineering JCS A-5 RVA:


COPS911 A-5 Sling

COPS911 A-5 'flat-line' barrel cover:

COPS911 A-5 flatline barrel cover:

Dark Horizon

Dark Horizon A-5 titanium hammer:

Dead On Painbtall

Dead on Paintball Double Trigger Kit

Dead on Paintball Front Grip

Dead on Paintball Grip Adapter Block

Dead on Paintball Front Grip ASA

Dead on Paintball Pro-Seal

Dead on paintball Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA)

Engler custom paintball guns

Engler AK-A5:

Engler AK-A5 folded:

Engler Thompson A-5:


Evil Paintball Barrel Adaptor Spyder to A-5

Extreme Sports

Extreme Sports M-4 Front Handgaurd kit

Extreme Sports Front Handgaurd Kit w/ Foregrip

Extreme Sports G3 Handguard Kit

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Handgaurd

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Sliding Stock Kit
www.extremesportsandhobbies.com/a5mp5slidingstock.htm l

Extreme Sports G3 Magazine Kit

Extreme Sports M4 Magazine Kit.

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Magazine Kit

Extreme Sports weaver sight Rail[/glow]

Extreme Sports M4 Style Carry hangle

Extreme Sports Clamp on Bipod

Full Boar

Full Boar Products barrel Adapter 'Cocker to A-5

Full Boar Products Barrel Adapter M98 to A-5

J&J Performance

J&J Performance A-5 45-grip frame.



Lapco Fake Suppressor

Lapco Foregrip Mount

Lapco Universal Mount


OPSGEAR A-5 AK-47 folding stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 AK-47 kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 collapsible military grade commando stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 G3 hand guard:

OPSGEAR A-5 G3 style magazine kit:


OPSGEAR A-5 integrated flat top rail system:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5-K style fixed length folding stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 flatline kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 kit:


OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 steel mag kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 deluxe kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 20 round mag kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 SD style barrel shroud:

OPSGEAR A-5 sniper solid stock:

Pro Team Products

Pro-Team A-5 Commando F/X Stock

Pro-Team A-5 flatline shroud:
http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item= 2933

Pro-Team ASR-1 Sight Rail


Pro-Team F/X Fore End

Pro-Team Low Profile Loader Cap

Pro-Team Sniper F/X Stock


Tippmann A-5 Double Trigger Kit

Tippmann A-5 low pressure kit:

Tippmann A-5 parts kit:
http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item= 2632

Tippmann A-5 Response Trigger:

Tippmann E-Grip:

Tippmann Flatline barrel system:

Edited by BMXer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bugg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2003 at 8:31am
What upgrade for what Pos you play in speedball and woodsball. Speedball first. Remember $$$ you can spend differs.
Front man: You want small stuff. You usually don't want a huge Eggy 2 hopper. Try getting something small like a Halo TSA. Also, get a confortable drop forward. They bring your tank down and up for better counterweight and smaller gun. Just keep it small since you'll be hunkered down alot. Keep a small barrel 7" - 9".

Mid Man: Doesn't really matter what hopper. Just make sure what you got is lite. You really need to move when you're mid. Also, remember pods... not alot just enough. 2 or 3. 12" barrel is preferable.

Back man: Get a direct feed hopper so you're sure you always have a ball chambered no matter what. Also, carry alot of pods. Have a pretty good sized barrel like 14". Have plenty of air.

Tape Man: Same as mid.


You want a flatline. You don't want to carry ALOT of paint, it just depends on how much you shoot. You want to be able to move around and be small when need be.

I hope this helps (and doesn't get deleted)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMXer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2003 at 12:37pm
Thanks to everyone at the pbreview forums who helped me with some of the ideas.

I am not responsible for what you mess up if you do this mod.

What we used:

1. Drill (doesn't have to be expensive)
2. Drill bit a little bit smaller then the bike spoke (doesn't have to be expensive), and a few other ones close to it's size.
3. A couple of bike spokes with spoke nipples;14 guage spokes are what I used, which are what comes on most bikes.
4. A drill bit that is a little smaller than the diameter of the dowel rod used, and it doesn't hurt to have a few other sizes.
5. Dowel rod the same diameter of the cocking knob, but at least as long as the diameter of the rear bolt.
6. File
7. Sandpaper
8. Something that will cut the bike spokes.
9. Knife

Steps for rear cocking:

1. Take apart your marker and take out your end cap.

2. Do you see the holes in the inside of the endcap (the part facing the bolt)? Make a hole the diameter of the spoke in the endcap

3. Clean the whole up with a file, some sandpaper, and maybe a knife.

4. Make sure that the spoke has no problem going through the end cap.

5. Put the end cap back on the marker.

6. Cut the curved end of the bicycle spoke off (the part that goes on the hub of a bike)

7. While your endcap is in your marker, run the spoke through the end cap until it touches the bolt.

8. Get the spoke as straight as you can against the bolt insert, and make a mark where you're going to drill on the bolt insert. The end of the bike spoke should be sharp from where cut it earlier; you can make a mark with this sharp end if you like. My mark was about 3.5mm from the edge of the bolt insert if that helps any, and I suggest that yours be close to that.

Note: It is very important that you mark the hole correctly, because if you don't mark it correctly, when you drill, you might drill into the cocking knob or into the rear bolt itself.

9. Once again I say, get the spoke as straight as you can; it is very important that you do so.

10. Get the drill out, and find a bit that is a little smaller than the bike spoke. (The drill and bit that used were both cheap, and I came out fine, so don't worry if you don't have a nice drill.)

11. Take the rear bolt out, and put it on something sturdy before you start drilling (I used a peice of plywood)

Note: Although you will be drilling the rear bolt insert, it is good to have the bolt insert in the bolt along with the cocking knob, so that you can hold it steady easier.

12. With the mark you made on the bolt insert facing up, start drilling on the bolt insert until you get the hole to be a least 1/2 an inch deep, but it is very important that you drill as straight as you can, because if you don't, that could cause complications that I've already mentioned above. I drilled my hole a little bit at a time, and each time I stopped, I made sure that the hole was straight. At one time my hole was crooked, but I straighted it out.

13. While you're drilling, hope and pray that you don't mess anything up.

14. Once you've got the hole drilled, screw the spoke nipple onto the spoke all the way and try to find out how long the spoke should be. If the hole you drilled is 12 inch deep, 4 inches should be a safe length.

Note, remember that the rear bolt goes farther when it shoots than it is when it's just sitting there uncocked, because it has to hit the valve.

15. You can shorten spoke a little bit at a time, but be careful not to shorten it to much. If you do shorten it a little to much, you can screw the spoke nipple out some.

16. Once the spoke is ready, take the bolt out along with the bolt insert and cocking rod inside of it, put them on something sturdy, and tap the spoke into the rear bolt insert while it's still in the rear bolt.
I used some sturdy wire cutters to do this, but it will probably work a little better with a hammer.

Note: The bike spoke may not hold to well, so you might want to use some JB weld to get it to hole better, and you could make little marks in the spoke with the wire cutters so that it would hold better. If you do make marks in the spoke, it would be better if the were made so that the spoke would go in easy, but not come out easy. I haven't done it, but it may work.

17. Cut the dowel rod to a length that is a little less than the diameter of the rear bolt, so that is hold the bolt insert in place.

18. Drill a hole through the dowel rod so that the spring will go through it.

19. Replace the cocking knob with the dowel rod you just drilled.

If you like, you can get a beaver tail and a side cover.

Drop me a line via PM if you need any help with this mod. This is my modification, so if you want to put it on your site, please get my permission first

Edited by BMXer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Investorguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2003 at 5:53pm
Hey, you guys might wanna have one uber mod thread for the A-5 and one for the m98... just an idea. Y'all can delete this if you don't like it or don't think it belongs here.

My experience with other guns has given me some vision for creating the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job … So this post documents the creation of it.

The first thing I noticed in playing around with all the triggers in “higher end” electro guns was all the grubscrews. There are ways to set nearly every aspect of the trigger in most of these guns. I looked at my A-5 egrip and I thought, “Where are MY grubscrews?   How can I adjust MY trigger?” Well, without resorting to serious modification, you really can’t. But there is a way to modify you’re A-5/E-grip. It simply involves performing the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job .

What You Need:
-a tiny grubscrew, about as small as you can find
-a longer grubscrew that is just about as skinny as the tiny one
-a power drill
-a few springs to try out
-your E-grip

Okay, for those of you going, “uh… what the heck is a grubscrew….?” Here is what I’m talking about:

They are sitting on a towel, so if you compare their size to the size of the towel threads, you can imagine how small these ones are. They have solid bottoms and a hole in the top. The hole fits those really small hex wrenches.

First, a little back ground on how the E-Grip works.

As you can hopefully see, when the trigger is pulled, the switch is released. This activates a solenoid which propels a rod into the sear, tripping it and causing the hammer to fly forward into the valve, etc… Basically all we are really concerned about here is the switch release, because we can’t really control much of anything else.

The key point of understanding here is that the switch is released, not depressed as in most electro gun. The switch is actually “activated” while the trigger is at rest. The act of releasing the switch is what fires up the ‘noid. This creates a problem. As an example, the easiest and quickest way to speed up a timmy or matrix is to take the spring OUT of the gun and rely on the switch to provide the trigger return force. We don’t have that option here. The switch force is actually working with the trigger. Thus, you can abandon any thought of removing the trigger spring, you’re gonna need it at the very least to balance out the switch pressure.

Here are a couple more pictures to hopefully clear this up:

Setting The Activation Point

To have a nice trigger, you need to have a really short pull and you need a reliable method of creating it. The goal is typically a mouse click. Go ahead and click on your mouse. How far down did you have to push? A millimeter maybe? Well, I’ve gotten my A-5 to release the switch after about that must of a pull by literally shaving off and replacing part of the trigger. Now, there are other ways to do this. Evan Aris has a trigger job that is supposed to do this. I have no idea what he does. Pimpazz of these forums will do a trigger job for you. I have guessed at how he does it a couple times and both guesses have been wrong, so I have no idea what he does either. That said, I did it in the following way and found it to be exactly what I was looking for. The cost was under a dollar (for the grubscrew) and the activation is now adjustable to anywhere within the first few millimeters of the trigger pull.

First, I shaved off the little nub on the trigger that depresses the microswitch while the trigger is at rest. Then, I drilled a little hole where the nub used to be. Finally, I screwed in a grubscrew and, using the hex hole, adjusted the activation point to where I wanted it to be. Since the trigger is high-grade plastic, I did not have to tap the hole for threads. I did have to apply a little elbow grease to get the grubscrew in there, but it made its own threads once I got it going a little bit. Make sure, when you drill the hole, to use a bit slightly smaller than the grubscrew you will be using.

Here’s how it looks compared to a stock single trigger. You can see where the nub was cut off (a dremel would be great here, but I don’t have one… yet):

Setting The Trigger Stop

There are many ways to do this. Many of which can be found here. A member named bgredjeep provided excellent instructions for this as well in that thread. But, since it is part of the Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job , I will mention it here as well. Again, you use a grubscrew, though this time a longer skinny one, and screw it into the place where the trigger return spring goes. They make one that is the perfect length to be able to create the perfect stop point with a properly adjusted activation point. You want to find a spring that fits around the grubscrew loosely and make sure it’s very low tension—you really don’t need much.

Here is what mine looked like:

And here is a completed Ultimate A-5 Speedball Trigger Job :

Honestly, this trigger job puts the A-5 trigger pull right on par with that of my Matrixes. Crisp, short and consistent. Now if we can just do something about that kick...

Edit: pics resized upon by request of a mod. If they're too small you can go here to see them.

Edited by Investorguy
Drop forward hater

Pics of my guns
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tgaffner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2003 at 8:16pm


Here is how you can do some mods to your warp feed. The following shows how you can do a 12 volt, led light, and on/off switch mod.

It is very simple and easy to do if you know what you are doing and have all the materials needed.

Materials needed:

Radio Shack has EVERYTHING you will need! It will cost around 7-8 buck for all of this.

1. 2 9 volt battery connectors.

2. Wires.

3. 1 12 volt LED light. Any color you want.

4. 1 power switch. Toggle. Needs to be able to handle 19 volts.

5. Solder gun.

6. Solder.

7. Electrical tape or heat shrink wrapping.

8. A clean work place and about 2 hours.

9. A GOOD BRIGHT light.

And most important!

10. 1 19-to-12 volt regulator. It needs to take 19 volts and step it down to 12 volts.

Here is a simple diagram on how to set it up and how to wire it:

Make sure to cut the wires as SHORT as possible. There is not a whole lot of room in there.

It will only take a few hours to do this. You don't HAVE to put in a LED light or an on/off switch. But, it just makes it nicer.

After this mod you will notice that your warp will spin A LOT faster and it will be A LOT more sensitive!!

Here is another picture of how the Warp Feed could look.

You don't have to mount them side by side. You can stack them or do whatever you want. But, this way makes more room.



Here is a link that shows you how to connect a Warp Feed to your 98's E-Bolt, utilizing the Warp's IntelliFeed Input!


Edited by KRL15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tgaffner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2003 at 8:19pm

Removine and Re-Locating the E-Bolt Battery:

Here is a very easy diagram on how to do this mod.

All you need is:

1. Solder Gun.

2. Solder.

3. Extra Wire.

4. 30 Minutes.

5. Depends on how and were you mount it.

6. Maybe an LED Light.

Here is a diagram on how to do it:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tgaffner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2003 at 8:22pm

Removing E-Bolt ASA.

This is how you can get rid of that big E-Bolt ASA/ Regulator.

Things you will need:

1. Cocker Regulator. Most any cocker regulator will work. The most popular one is the Palmer Micro Rock.

3. Cockier 3-Way Tubing/ Hose.

4. Thread Sealer.

5. A 2 Holed ASA

Here is a diagram on how you should do it:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultimatetrooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2003 at 8:23am

So you wanna paint your marker....


1.Steel Wool (optional)
2. Primer
3. Spray Paint
4. Clear Coat
5. Dermal (optional)
6. Tape (optional)


1. Field Strip your marker, take everything out so you
just have your receiver halves.


2. Use either a dermal or steel wool to strip off all the
paint off your marker (yes the stock tippmann black
or silver paint) be sure to get UNDER the marker and
the BACK of the marker (these are spots I almost


3. Wipe down your marker with a Wet Cloth to make
sure you get all the debris off of it, and to see if you
missed any spot where some paint might still be.


4. Tape off your internals so no paint will get on the
inside, cover all the holes and everything (this step is


5. Spray about 3-4 LIGHT coats of primer. Let dry. Go
back and see if you missed a spot and to be sure
both receivers are completely covered with the


6. Spray the spray paint on the marker, about 3-4
coats and let dry. Just like doing the primer but
colored. Make sure you got every where on the
marker. Make sure the coats are Light and smooth
on both receiver halves… let dry


7. Now, Spray both receivers halves with some clear
coat, make sure you cover the entire marker. Make
the coats light and quick. This should make your
marker look a little “shiny” and “smooth”… let dry


8. If your internals were taped off then they should
look fine on the inside. If they don’t or you didn’t tape
them off then get out your steel wool (EXTRA fine
steel wool) or dermal and polish up your internals or
just polish it up so the paint, primer or clear coat is


9. Put your newly painted marker together


10. Show off


Another way to paint your maker is to use
Auto-motive paint. Get some sand paper and sand
down the paint on your tippmann (the stock
tippmann paint) just a little bit. Spray 3-4 coats of
primer on, then the paint and then the clear coat. The
process is the same just you didn’t sand off all the
stock tippmann paint. The paint will be much
“thicker” and it may be a little harder to install your
screws because of the thicker paint. Etc. Also it
tends to be “Mushy” and not as durable as the other
paintjob but it still turns out great!


Of coarse the paint is going to chip and scratch etc.
But just get some nail polish to touch up scratches,
cheap, your wife/girlfriend has plenty of them and
comes in a variety of colors.


Good Luck,

Ultimate Trooper


I am NOT responsible for you screwing up your
marker. These are steps and the exact way I painted
my marker. You are at fault for your own actions. PM
me for more detailed instructions..


Hopefully I will have pictures with a more
detailed step-by-step instructions too.

Edited by ultimatetrooper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The  Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2003 at 7:55pm

Hey though this could help some body....

Both of these are from the A-5 ownes group and made by keeper X I take NO credit for this.

The Tippmann E-Grip FAQ

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA E-Grip Trigger Frame. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the E-Grip?

The GTA E-Grip is a new Grip Electronic Frame that trips the sear electonically with each pull of the trigger using a solenoid. You install the new grip frame in the place of the stock grip frame. The E-grip comes complete with trigger assembly, trigger frame and the electonic components.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger activates the sear electornically, the marker can fire much quicker than the stock trigger, but slightly slower than the RT. Most people report results of 15bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire,?

Yes. There are Two holes in the E-grip Frame that allow you to change both the rate of fire and the mode of fire with a small screwdriver.

What modes of fire are available?

The E-Grip has five firing modes.

  1. Semi Automatic - One shot for each pull of the Trigger
  2. Turbo - Semi-Auto until the trigger is pulled faster than 4bps then it switches to auto-responce, doubling your rate of fire.
  3. Auto Response - One shot on the pull and one on the release of the trigger. Basically two round burst.
  4. Three Round Burst - Three shot each time you pull the trigger
  5. Full Automatic - Hold the Trigger, launch 15bps in a constant string.

It's electronic right? Runs on Batteries, eh? Which ones?

The E-Grip uses standard 9 volt batterys and gets roughly 3000 rounds per battery from reports we've gathered.

Is the E-Grip easy to install and uninstall?

Yes. You just pull the two lower reciever pins, and the tombstone pin, remove the stock grip frame, remove the bottomline ASA from the stock receiver and install it on the E-Grip, and install the E-grip on the marker just as you uninstalled the Stock Grip. It takes less than two minutes.

Does the E-Grip use MORE gas?

In theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the E-Grip Tourney Legal?

Absolutely. That's why it was created. It takes the A-5 into High-End territory and can definately compete with the Big boys out there. Just as Tippmann Effect, Tippmann's Factory Tourney Team. Though it can only be used in Semi-Auto mode.

Are there any problems with the E-Grip?

A few. The Battery tends to be difficult to install/uninstall even though it was designed to be easy. The Wires tend to get in the way and hold the battery in the grip.

The Trigger switch is very sensitive and unless you make sure to turn the E-grip to a "Dead" setting, the sear tripping pin can shoot out of the Grip.

Also, the cyclone can get rather rough on paint when cycling at 15bps for loing periods of time. There are updates available for the cyclone that fixes that problem and they are free. Just call Tippmann for details.

Some fields still ban everything except Semi-Automatic, sue the other modes after talking to your field operators.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann sells the E-Grip for about $150 + shipping, but it can be picked up as low as $119 on the internet.

Can I see your E-Grip in Action?

Why yes, you can. Follow this link to see it in action:

The Tippmann Response Trigger FAQ

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA RT Trigger Kit. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the RT Trigger Kit?

The GTA Response Trigger Kit is a fully mechanical, Pnuematic Trigger Assist system. It uses wasted blow back gas to power a piston installed behind the trigger which returns the trigger to the ready position, ready to fire the next shot much quicker than the normal spring return and with much greater force.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger resets much quicker and with much greater force, you can pull it quicker. Most people report results of between 14 and 17bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire, like with electronic Markers?

In a manner yes. You can adjust the flow of gas to the RT Piston, increasing or decreasing the pressure in the piston. The greater the pressure, the greater the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a slower the rate of fire. The lesser the pressure, the lesser the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a higher rate of fire.

Will the RT make my A-5 Fully Automatic?

In a way yes, and in a way no. Fully automatic markers work by cycling the bolt automatically while you are holding the trigger down. The RT can MIMIC this easily, but the trigger still moves with each shot, so you TECHNICALLY are pulling the trigger with each ball fired. This is called "sweet spotting."

How do you find the "Sweet Spot?"

It's different with the individual settings of each marker and each player. Usually the sweet spot can be found by pulling the trigger about half way back instead of all the way back and by applying constant pressure to the trigger. If set up correctly, the Trigger will bounce against your finger, and fire off a string of shots at high speed.

Is the RT easy to install and uninstall?

Yes, much easier to install than the 98 Custom Version of the RT, and it requires less modification. The instructions are a bit complicated, but anyone with a decent working knowledge of the A-5 will be able to install it in about 15 minutes, and even less to disable it. To Disable the RT, you simply need to pull the hose that leads to the RT piston, and replace the Banjo "T" fitting with the stock banjo fitting.

Does the RT use MORE gas?

Yes and no. The RT works on wasted blow back gasses. So in theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the RT Tourney Legal?

Again, yes and no. Even though it is still a semi-automatic marker, and you're still pulling the trigger for each paintball fired, the fact that you can mimic full auto easily has caused MOST big leagues to ban the RT. Some local tourneys will allow it though, so always check with the Ultimate Judge of the tourney before signing up with and RT.

Are there any problems with the RT?

A few. Some of the earlier RT kits had loose o-rings resulting in leaks. And some of the RTs shipped with bad pistons. These problems were corrected by Tippmann and if you have one of these kits you can contact Tippmann to get yours replaced.

Newer RT kits also come with new trigger plates that can stand up to the pressure of the RT kit a little better.

That and some field still ban fully automatic paintball markers, and the RT because of the trigger bounce.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann is shipping A-5s with RT installed in then and they are selling around the internet for Between $269 and $290. You can also buy the kit and install it yourself for about $75 to $99.

Edited by The Man
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballer44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2003 at 9:15pm

Paintball Grenades



Paintball grenades are used most often in scenario games, and are also used often in recreational woods ball games. Although, not all fields allow the use of paint grenades, so before you go to the field with a box of grenades to play, check with the field owner to see if you can use them. They can be extremely useful when there is a large bunker with several people in it, that your paintballs cannot penetrate. Although, many people use grenades in situations like this, but do not do something correct, causing your 5 dollar grenade not to explode. Several things can be blamed for this.


  1. You did not shake well before using. That is the number one problem. Not shaking the grenade usually results in it not exploding, but sometimes it may explode without shaking if you throw it very high.


  1. Did not throw correctly. Many people throw their paintball grenades similar to a baseball just with a little arch. You need to lob it with a lot of arch.


  1. You forgot t take a part off the grenade. I’ve seen people forget to take the pin out. Some people take the mesh off of the tube. Those people usually get better results.


Types Of Grenades


  • Tippmann Squad busters. Too bad they aren’t as reliable as other Tippmann products.


  • Bouncing Betty’s. Usually work without a hitch.


  • Meteor Shower Grenades. What I think are the best on the market. Sometimes they are too sensitive and can go off in your pocket while crawling. With these, you can set them up as a trip mine, or you can throw like a normal grenade.


  • Banana Grenades. I have never used any of these, but on my local field, I have seen them used and they are quite reliable.

United States Marine Corps

Semper Fi!

What am I doing here? I don't even play paintball anymore!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote -ProDigY- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 December 2003 at 9:02pm
Complete Guide to Electronic

A countless number of "which hopper and why"
questions have been asked on the forum and
hopefully this thread will be able to answer some of
those questions. And we're off:

Why get an electronic hopper at all?
      In my opinion an electronic hopper is essential to
any player, weather he's shooting five balls per
second or twenty five balls per second. There's
always that possibility that you won't have a
ball in the breach, or worse, have a ball half way in
the breach. Chopping a ball can ruin anybody's
game and having an agitated hopper helps to
eliminate this common problem.

What exactly does an electronic hopper do
      There are two different types of agitated hoppers.
Hoppers like the EvLution II and the Halo B actually
feed the paint into the breach, where as hoppers
such as the Revolution and the Ricochet (ak and 2k)
simply mix the balls up and move them around so
that they're more likely to drop into the feed neck.
The hoppers that mix the balls up, naturally, can't
feed as fast as the hoppers that actually push the
paint into the feed neck. I'll get into the mechanical
workings later on in the post (it's in bold if you want
to get there fast and skip over all this).

Which hopper should i get?
      Note that these are only my opinions. Many
disagree. Try the hoppers out before you buy them
and see how you feel about them.

-Ricochet series:
      The Ricochet series has a flap inside of the
neck and every time a ball hits this flap, it sends an
electrical signal to the paddle inside the hopper and
it spins. This hopper, unlike the revolution (and
many other hoppers) agitates every time you shoot,
which makes it fairly efficient in feeding. It was
designed to deflect balls, which i hear it does (i've
never witnessed this on mine). It's available in both
the ak and 2k model. The Ricochet 2k has an LCD
screen in the back which has a timer, counts how
many shots you've fired (which is also done by the
flap in the neck), has reload alarms and timer
alarms. The Ricochet AK, has a window on the side
of the hopper so that you can view how much paint is
left in your hopper. It has no screen or alarms, but is
still very effective. Another feature on both the AK
and the 2k model is that they have o-ring enforced
necks, so the hopper is sure to stay tight on your
elbow. The hoppers only feed about 13 balls per
second, so if you plan on exceeding that, i'd defiantly
recommend a different hopper. Overall it's a great
hopper-well built, good customer service, does
exactly what it's supposed to, and reasonably priced
at 65 dollars.

-Revolutions and Empire Reloaders
      The Revolution series (9 and 12 v) have a
sensor in the neck of the hopper. If it ever senses
that a ball isn't in the neck, a propeller inside the
hopper will agitate, and stir the balls up so that they'll
drop into the neck. The 9volt series spins slower
(less battery power, it only feeds about 6 bps) and
only has 2 paddles. The 12volt spins faster (more
battery power, feeds about 15 bps) and has four
paddles. The idea behind the hoppers is good, but
they are poorly made. The feed necks are
notoriously fragile and, in my experience snap
insanely easily. The shell could also stand to be
a little bit stronger. The Empire Reloader takes
the same shells as the revolution but replaces the
electronics of the hopper. It makes the hopper
sound activated so that every time your gun fires, the
paddles will spin, which makes the hopper feed
faster and more efficiently. But again, i, and many
people, have had serious problems with the shell
quality of these hoppers and i would seriously
recommend against them. These hoppers are
made by ViewLoader, and go for about 50 dollars.

-EvLution II
      The EvLution has the same sensory system as
the Revolution hoppers. If a ball's not ready, the
paddle will rotate and will feed one. The difference
between the EvLution II and the Revolution is, for
one, the propeller itself. The EvLution has a JVON 6
propeller that's made of flexible rubber so that it isn't
rough on paint (as you probably concluded from the
name it has six paddles). It also has a "Raceway
feeder shelf" so that it actually feeds the paint rather
than just mixing it up. It feeds (roughly) seventeen
balls per second and it does this very efficiently. I've
heard of some people having shell problems (feed
necks being so big that they can't fit it on which
causes it to fall off of the gun is the one i've heard
most commonly, but that's nothing that can't be fixed
with a little sanding), but my experiences with this
hopper have been nothing but positive. I like the
"hinge" door feature and i actually do feel that
you're able to load more easily and with less spills
with this feature. Another positive feature on this
hopper is the speed adjustment. You can adjust the
speed of the propellor with nothing more than a
finger nail. This means that you can customize how
fast you need the hopper to feed. If it's feeding too
fast and double feeding, you can turn it down. If you
want your batteries to be more efficient, you can turn
it down. If you want it to feed faster you can turn it
up--A truely great, unique feature. It has a longer
feed neck, which makes it feed slightly faster, but the
downside is that it makes this hopper a bit taller on
top of your gun. Some people hate the blimpish
looks of it (i did at one point too) but when you adjust
to it, it really isn't bad. Overall, in my opinion, a great
hopper for anyone looking to take a step up in their
feeding capabilities. It is my current hopper of
choice. The Evo II's go for around 75 dollars.

     The HALO TSA hopper is a sound activated
agitating hopper (it works much like the Reloader).
Every time it hears your gun shoot, the paddle will
agitate and mix the balls up inside of the hopper.
What's unique about this hopper is that it has
Tilt-Activation, which means that the hopper is
sensitive to what position you're in and the propeller
will move to suit that position. This can be very
handy for those times when you angle your gun for a
shot. It feeds about as fast as the ricochet's but the
tilt-action makes it more efficient in the feeding
process. Only criticisms are the length and the
noise. It's fairly long, and fairly noisy in feeding, but
those are fairly unimportant in the grand scheme of
things. Well made and reasonably priced (at about
70 dollars).

      This is copied right from the odesy website,
because they can do a much better job of explaining
it than i can. I've only ever tested the HALO B, but
i certainly liked what i saw.
True Force Feed:
The HALO B is unlike any paintball loader ever
designed. It is a true force feed loader that keeps
tension on the ball stack . This allows the HALO to
actually accelerate (faster than the gravity limitations
other loaders have) balls via spring tension into the
marker. It also prevents the marker from disturbing
the ball stack with blow back pressure.

Computerized pre-feeding:
The HALO's built in computer monitors the motion of
the ball stack, feeding when motion is detected. This
ensures that a gap in feeding never occurs (unlike
other loaders which use their sensing system to
actually detect a gap - meaning a gap is REQUIRED
before they feed more balls - creating a design

Spring Tension:
Halo's feed system uses a drive spring. This spring
is used to store the energy that is used to tension
the ball stack, and accelerate ball feeding. The
computer controller and motor are used to keep
tension in the spring - the spring does the actual
pushing of the ball stack.

Sensor Limitations (Black Paint):
The Halo's sensor system works by detecting
motion of the ball stack using infrared technology.
Some black shelled paints are infrared absorbing so
that HALO has difficulty detecting them. Because of
this, we do not recommend you use black shelled
paint (or half black shell paint) with the HALO. All
other colors work fine (including dark blue, purple,
      A word of warning, however...If your gun has weak
detents, the HALO is said to feed so strongly that it
can cause double feeding.
     The HALO B goes for around 110 dollars, for
more information see

-Warp Feed
      I'm getting increasingly lazy so this is copied from
AGD's site:
"The Warp Feed is the worlds first pressure feed
system for paintball markers. Instead of relying on
gravity to feed your paint, the Warp positively and
gently pushes a steady stream of paintballs up and
into your breach! The system is a friction drive
utilizing soft urethane disks in the feed wheel. The
disks actually grip the paintballs on their sides and
will allow the balls to slip when they are finished
feeding a ball. In this way the system can not jam or
crush paint. The mounting bracket provided bolts to
the bottom of the grip frame and will allow the Warp
to swivel to the most comfortable position. The Warp
has two main benefits, first is reliably feeds
paintballs faster than you can possibly pull the
trigger and second it removes that large blimp from
the top of your marker!! The Warp can be activated
just by the adjustable vibration sensor when the
marker fires or can be directly interfaced to your
Emag or other electronic marker."
      Like the HALO B, i've only ever tested the
warp. Overall i really liked it. It increases the feed
rate of your hopper (for instance, a ricochet feeds 13
bps, but a ricochet atop a warp feed can feed about
16 bps). The warp has so many positive aspects: it
moves your hopper to the side of your gun, which
lowers your profile significantly (as long as you're
shooting out of the proper side of the bunker), it
increases your feed rate, and it allows you to shoot
at awkward angles (with your gun tilted) since it
doesn't rely on gravity. When i shot it, my only
complaints were that it wasn't quite as comfortable,
because i constantly had the warp hovering to the left
of my gun. But, i've heard that once you adjust, this
goes away, and i didn't really get a chance to adjust
because i only shot with it for one or two games.
Another issue i had is that, during games, i shoot
left-handed just as much as i shoot right
handed...Thus, for half of the game, i was actually a
bigger target than i would be if i just had a hopper
sitting on top of my gun. This alone is reason
enough for me to not buy the warp feed, but for
those who don't shoot switch-handed a lot, it's a
great upgrade. If you shoot an AGD gun, you can
pick up a warp for about one hundred and thirty
dollars, but if you shoot a different brand of gun, you
can pick one up for around one hundred and eighty
dollars. Bear in mind, though, that the Warp is not a
hopper, it requires a hopper to be put on top of it.

Where should i buy my hopper?
     The following is a list of the best online deals that
i could find online. If you know of a better deal,
feel free to post it.

BK&aitem=3&mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 has
both the rico ak and 2k for the same (very cheap)
price: 59 bucks.

12v Revolution- Revvy's can be purchased at
2v-revolution-loaders.html for 45 dollars.

Empire Reloader- You can buy reloaders at
mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 for 48 dollars.

EvLution II-
sells EvLution II's for 72 dollars (black, they sell clear
for eighty).

HALO TSA- You can buy the HALO TSA hopper
for 69 dollars at

has the HALO B available for 109 dollars.

Warp Feed- The warp is available at
&mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 for 109 dollars.

I apologize for the length. It wasn't really intended to
be read through, i tried to make it easy enough for
someone to just jump to the section they were
interested in. I also apologise for the lack of
links...The new forum hates me (there were
supposed to be some pictures too..Oh well)
Hopefully this will help some people out!

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Rhino39 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Rhino39 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2003 at 5:09pm

Fine, I’ll admit it from the start. This is just another flatline post. And you are probably just another forumer looking for just another bit of info you probably have heard somewhere else before. I’m attempting to put everything I know, others know, and what you are looking to know (you clicked on the thread) into one place. That being said, take a gander!


What is the flatline?- The flatline is a curved barrel designed to add a large amount of range to your Tippmann 98, 98c, or A-5. It nearly doubles the range of an ordinary straight barrel. It has been proven to be the farthest shooting barrel on the market. With the flatline, you can aim straight at a target and not have to lob the paintballs to get it there. Nothing compares to the feeling you get when your opponent is lobbing paintballs which are landing harmlessly at your feet then you take one shot, a straight line, and nail him- flatlined!


How does it work?- The flatline barrel is curved upwards and has a rather rough interior. When the paintball is fired, it travels upwards, instead of straight, and falls victim to centrifugal force. The paintball starts to spin backwards inside the barrel and leaves the barrel in a straight line. The backspin creates high pressure above the paintball and low pressure below it, like an airplane wing. If the paintball was not subject to the forces of gravity, it would actually rise. The lift on the paintball counteracts the force of gravity and thus is travels on a flat line for a much longer distance. The paintball starts to lose backspin and begins to drop at around 200 feet but it will travel for almost 100 yards.


Cheapest place to buy one (that I know of)- http://www.edgepaintball.cjb.net/  where you can get it for $104. Of course, you can always get them much cheaper off ebay, but this site was recommended by another forumer as a good, trustworthy place to buy from


Length- 14 inches for the 98c, 9 inches for the A-5 version


Bore size- .692- large bore


Recommended velocity- the flatline can handle as low as 240 fps, but not much higher than 290. I’d recommend shooting between 260-280 fps for best results.


Recommended paint size- small bore paint works best, even though it’s a large bore barrel.


Recommended paint to use (taken from personal experience/others’ experiences)- The following “chart” does not necessarily include all types of paint, just the ones I figured were most common and/or that I picked at random without any idea if anyone actually uses them or not. So here’s the chart “key”- works very well, works fine, could go either way, not recommended, don’t let me catch you using this


32 degrees team color


Brass Eagle Afterburner

Diablo Blaze





Direct Hit

DraXxus Artic Inferno


Great American

JT Elite




Kingman Java Classic


Nelson Anarchy


              Hot Spot


Nitro Duck

Paintball Inc. Proball

              Proball Platinum

Paintball Junkies

PMI Advantage

              Black Maxx





RPS All Star


              Big Ball

              El Tigre






              Polar Ice

              Premium Gold



Tippmann Werks


Xtreem Aftermath




Zap Advantage

              Performance Plus


              Pro Series

              Pro European





Installing the flatline- The first step to enjoying the flatline is installing it. Just screw it in like a normal barrel, right? Wrong. The flatline is anything but ordinary and that fact is shown best when you attempt to install it. Here are the verbatim instructions off the Tippmann website.

The A-5 instruction are located here- http://www.tippmann.com/support/manual/a5flatlinemanual.pdf


Basically what it’s saying is this- Loosen the three bolts, slide in the barrel adapter and oil the inside. Then slide in the barrel ( I put the barrel in first, then the shroud) and make sure it’s aligned straight. Now tighten the pinch bolt on the barrel adapter. The hard part in the installation is actually putting the barrel in straight. If you look on the top and back part of the muzzle break, you will notice a notch in the barrel a few mm across. Look down the front of the barrel and line that up with the crack on the marker where the two receiver halves meet. It should be at the 12 o’clock position. Now tighten the pinch bolt. I recommend going out to a safe area and firing 3 shots at something harmless (like a tree or cardboard target). If the shot grouping is not dead on from about 40 yards, loosen your pinch bolt and turn the barrel accordingly. I recommend scratching in your own mark, either on tape or on the barrel itself, once the barrel is installed correctly because the notch on the muzzle break is not necessarily where the center needs to be. Some people tend to hold the marker naturally at a certain angle. Align the flatline to shoot straight from this position, not up-and-down with the marker. 

             The plastic shroud is not needed for the performance of the barrel, but it does protect it. It helps keep dirt and mud out of the barrel adapter and it protects from the bumps and bruises a barrel would acquire during use.


How to clean the flatline- The most important step on your way to enjoying the flatline is installing it. The second is cleaning it. Think of the flatline as a high performance car. You want to treat it right so it’ll treat you right. The best way to prevent a ball break is to make sure the barrel is free of debris. Fill up a bathtub about a foot deep with warm water. Put everything- the flatline, the shroud, the adapter- into the water. Pour in a little soap, it doesn’t matter what kind, and let it soak for about 30 minutes. When you take it out of the water, dry off the shroud and barrel adapter. Take your squeegee and run it through the barrel about 4-5 times to get any last debris out. Let them sit inside (not outside in the sun, as it can weaken objects after an extended period of time) to dry.  


The cotton ball method- This is intended as a “quick fix” and should not be your main cleaning after a ball break. Take a baggie and fill it with about a dozen cotton balls. Then fill it with alcohol (not Sam Adams) so that it covers the cotton balls. Take it with you during play and when you get a ball break, unhinge the elbow, place an alcohol-soaked cotton ball in the chamber, and fire it out. When you fire it, aim to hit someone because the cotton ball will be covered in paint. Do this about 2-3 times. The alcohol will break down the paint and the cotton ball will carry it out. Like I said, this is only a temporary solution. A good cleaning after the day is over is a good idea.                         


"The balls curve up when the leave the barrel"- Nope. Not true, or atleast in the noticable sense. The upwards lift created by the backspin cancels out the downwards pull from gravity, allowing the paintballs to go further. It does rise a tiny bit, but a matter of millimeters. In general, they leave the barrel in a straight line and don't start going down until the upwards lift starts to slow (the spin slows) and no longer cancels out gravity. This was one of those myths that is based on fact but expanded to a bigger deal than it really is.


“The flatline doesn’t shoot as fast as other barrels”- The following will eliminate much reading- 280 fps is always going to be 280fps. If you’re too thick headed to understand that, how about an explanation?  The illusion the balls are traveling slower is just that- an illusion. Your eyes aren’t used to seeing a paintball travel for that far in such a straight line. Your mind assumes it’s traveling the standard distance but you see that it’s in the air longer. You thus conclude that it’s traveling slower. It is true that over distance the paintball loses speed, as with any barrel, but that’s something you sacrifice when you get the longer range. You just have to decide if it’s worth it to you.


“The flatline isn’t accurate”- With the flatline, you have a much greater engagement distance than with any other barrels. The flatline is very accurate at distances that other barrels can reach. It doesn’t compare to a Freak or an All American, but it can hold it’s own. The problem is, people think it should be just as accurate at longer distances. What they don’t think about is that the paintball is subject to the wind, moisture in the air, ect longer. The greater a distance it travels, the more it’s exposed. If there is a 5 mph wind coming from the left, it might blow a paintball shot out of a straight barrel to the right three inches from the aiming point by the time it hits the ground. The same situation would blow a paintball shot from a flatline off target by possibly a foot by the time it hits the ground. The flatline is still very accurate at “normal” ranges, but the farther the paintball travels, the more it’s affected by outside forces and the greater a chance is has of being knocked off target. Properly installing a flatline, as outlined before, will also make a huge difference in how accurate it is.


“You can’t shoot fast with a flatline”- It’s a problem of multiplication. The faster you shoot, the more paintballs travel through your barrel. The more paintballs travel through your barrel, the greater the likelihood that one will break. Let’s say Johnny Triggerhappy is shooting at 10 bps for 10 seconds. In that period of time, he’s shot 100 paintballs. Now let’s say the odds are that one in every 100 paintballs breaks (for that to be true, he’d have to be shooting with bad paint, but for simplicity’s sake, let’s say those are the odds). He’d be breaking one paintball every time he did this. It’s not that the flatline breaks balls, it’s that people shoot more and with bad paint. The reason the flatline seems to break so many paintballs is that it tends to be picky with paint, so the odds may worsen for you if you don’t pay attention to which type paintballs you use.


“The paintballs don’t break at the longer ranges”- This is false. Take a hammer and hit a paper plate on a stand (or parent). Now tie a rope to the end of the hammer and go hit a paper plate while swinging the hammer by the rope in a counter-clockwise manner. The second time should produce much more damaging results. A spinning paintball not only has the force from going forward, but the force from spinning upwards too. As a general rule of thumb- don’t expect the paintballs to break once they start to drop. But if you can hit the person in a straight line, your chances are good that the paintball will break on them.


Curving paintballs- You’ll find that by turning the flatline on its side, you can actually put a slight curve on paintballs. You can curve them around the edges of bunkers or other objects or you can turn the marker upside down and drop them over the top like a knuckle ball. This is due to the spin put on the paintball. When you put the marker on it’s side, the backspin becomes sidespin. You just have to mess around with it to get a feel for how much they curve. It’s hard to accurately predict where they will land when you curve them, but I have developed a pretty good method- I have fashioned a sight made from toothpicks to help me accurately place my shots when I decide to curve them. With the toothpick sight, I simply aimed at a spot 40 yards away and then watched where the paintball hit at 40 yards. I cut a toothpick on the barrel(keep in mind- the marker is on it's side right now)lying perpendicular to the marker when it's straight up, pointing towards where my shot landed. I did this for both sides. Think of the sights for a bow and arrow. That's kind of what it looks like.


The A-5 Flatline- The A-5 flatline works and acts the same as the 98c version. The concept behind it, and everything about it- curving balls, being semi-accurate at longer distances, the distance it shoots, ect is the same as the 98 custom version. The only thing that's different is more of the technical info like how to install it and the length.  


I hope this post helped. It has taken me about 2 weeks to write this up and gather information. I hope to inform many of the potential flatline users as to what, exactly, the flatline really is. I’ve tried to make my information as accurate as possible, but if you see an error, please feel free to correct me. I’d appreciate it very much.


Best of luck,





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 How to make my Blade trigger (The Evil Blade Trigger)

Read All Directions Before Purchasing The Items & DO NOT  RUSH THROUGH ANY OF THE DIRECTIONS. If you would like me to do it for you, you can send your stock or double trigger to me with your name and address with $30.00 and they only come in black. I will do every thing for you and sure make it look great. I do not have trigger guards.

What you will need:

1.       a piece of aluminum (The measurements are in detail on the bottom)

2.       stock 98 custom trigger

3.       paper, pencil, an exacto blade, copy machine…etc.

4.       heavy duty vise clamp

5.       a metal cutting band saw

6.       super glue and super glue bondß---(very hard to find, it is very old but it works very good)

7.       metal filers

8.       some wood

9.       primer paint, paint color of your choice, and clear coat

10.   fine grit wet sand paper

11.   mid grit automotive sand paper wet or dry

12.   some materiel around the house

13.   Jigsaw, or saber saw

14.   DERMEL sanding tools *optional*

Well I have been doing this for the locals for some money; I can always tell you how to do it. Or you can sent it to me and I’ll do it for you for $30.00 bucks

1. Get the stock single trigger and sketch it as close as you can on paper.

2. Draw the design that you desire on that piece of paper that you sketched the stock trigger on

3. Go a local hardware store or machine shop to buy a piece of metal about 3/8”  thick at least 3" tall and it doesn't matter how long it is   (the smaller the better but not too small so if you mess up you can do it again)

Get it in aluminum alloy it is about $4-5 dollar (its by weight so the lighter it is the cheaper)

4. After you have got the metal and the drawing photo copy the drawing so you can always have a back up drawing. 

5. Cut the drawing out like a template so you can trace it on to the metal. trace in permanent marker so it doesn't come off when you cut it. it is always better to trace it again after you have traced it with the marker, but this time crave it so you can always see it.

(When you make the template make such you only cut the new piece that is going on to the stock trigger out of the paper)

6. If you have the tools then go a head and cut out the trigger. it is okay not to cut in detail you can always go back and sand all the curves out later.

7. Now sand it in detail to the look that you desire. (use metal filers, the best one to use is the one with a round side and a flat side)

8. This is the hardest part. now you need to cut between the metal so it has a opening that is about a 1/4” between the metal and about 1” up and down.

Use the vise clamp to hold it and cut it with a jigsaw, if you don’t have a band saw. It is always better to have heavy duty tools. Sand between the metal after you sand the trigger until it fits tightly on top of each other.

(When using the vise clamp always have wood on the sides of the trigger to protect it)

*It ca be cut a little thinner than 1/4” if you want to sand the trigger thinner*

9. Sand the both sides of the stock trigger until it is about a 1/4” thick. (sand only the highlighted parts)

10.  Now use the vise clap to hold the trigger and mold it on with the super glue and super glue bond.

(The super glue bond makes the super glue really strong, it will be strong enough)

11. sand it smooth, apply super glue and super glue bond where needed. (you should put it in the front of the trigger and sand that down nice and smooth)

12. Now paint it, don’t paint the top of the trigger just what you see.

Make sure you have a control spot to paint in. Hang the trigger in the air with a coat hanger or what ever you have. Every set of paint must be painted at once. You can not paint on side then the other. DO NOT TRY TO RUSH THIS PROCESS.

Do not over spray

1.       Put about 2-3 thin coats of primer. Let the paint dry between coats. Leave the primer to dry for about 2-3 hours or until it is safe to touch.

2.       Now paint it in what every color you want. 2-3 nice sticky coatings. Let the paint tacky between coats.  Leave the paint to dry for about 8-9 hours. It is better to leave it for 24 hours just in case.

3.       Now apply the clear coat, there is really no limit to the coating on the clear coats.  I say about 3-5 coats of clear coat is good. Let it dry for a full 24 hours. Recoat any time.

That is all that you have to do. Have fun with it, never try to rush the process. It takes a great amount of time to finish this project and quiet a bit of money. I’m not responsible for any of you mistakes. Do this at your own risk.

The Measurements in detail




so you want to lighten your trigger?

  1. pen spring mod (go find a clicky pen, and take the spring out of it and cut it so that it is the same sizes as the stock: if the trigger does not feel lighter then stretch out the spring and cut it to the same size as the stock again. if you start to have double fire problems (shooting more then once on one pull) then the spring is too light< try again but try to do what you did before but lighter (i.e. not stretching it as long, cuting less links, different springs (brass, aluinum, steel)
  2. trigger stop (there are two ways to make a trigger stop, 1. on the trigger guard (drill a 1/8 hole in the double trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger, then go and get a 3/8 or 1/4 8-32 set screw, and a 8-32 tap, tap the hole screw in the set screw and adjust it turing right untill the trigger stops firing, then slowly turn left untill it barly fires, then tune it untill you like it) 2. in the frame (go and get a large enough tap for the RT hole and tap it, then go and find a screw either hex/phillp with the trigger mesurements to the tap, and screw it in) ^^ adjust as above.)
  3. pretravel and overtravel screw(pretravel screw is a set screw that adjusts how fast back the trigger goes when its idling(sitting there ready to be fired) overtravel screw is a set screw that adjusts when the trigger stops (aka trigger stop) so all you need is the pretravel screw, since i explained the trigger stop above, all you have to do is get a set screw that i said about in the trigger stop, (1/4 3/8 8-32) and tap the trigger return, screw it in adjust and fire.
  4. sear mod(sear mods are simple just get either a small diameter straw and put it where the sear rest, this couples with the pretravel screw.

this is all that you need in a trigger job

Speed ball trigger mod

evil-98 wrote:

just drill a hole where the trigger return spring pushes against the trigger, and put a set screw aka (grub screw) by taping the hole to the mesurements of the set screw, screw it in adjust it to the slider and the trigger will have a shorter pull

but this is the problem the if you try to adjust your trigger so that it is really short the "Trigger slider" will do what it is supposted to do, it will not shoot. instead of getting under the sear it will be right in front of it. the spring inside the trigger where the trigger slider is will just make you pull the trigger and not shoot.

there is a way to make it really short, but you have to mod you trigger slider. it is quite easy

take the trigger slider out and you have to sand it down is that the trigger needs to be pull at a much longer distance. but since you have the grub screw where the trigger return spring goes you can easily adjust it to like a 10mm pull or shorter depends on how you did the slider.

mines is at 3 mm. but mine is heavily modded

"disclaimer; it is not my fault if any of your actions screw up you trigger"

make the slider lower so that without adjusting the set screw, it will have a extremely long trigger. then adjust it to the new slider, and get it to a even shorter pull.

"disclaimer; it is not my fault if any of your actions screw up you trigger"

but i think that the slider is stainless steel, so its pretty hard to sand. i might be wrong.

i cut mines so it was easier than sanding it.

DERMEL are the best to use


^^this is to adjust the pretravel, the overtravel is adjusted by the trigger stop. this is really good but you need to do good work with the trigger slider. if you adjust it and do every thing right you will not need a trigger stop. the trigger will be to close so there is no need for a trigger stop. 2-3mm

Doing it in detail

you drill a hole where the trigger return spring is and you tap it to the mesurements of what every size grub screw the you have.(this is to adjust how far the trigger stops after you shoot)(trigger stops are to adjust the trigger after the sear has been setted off< so you dont have to pull the rest of the pull that you dont need after the sear has been setted off) after you have tapped a hole where the trigger return spring is on the trigger, and putted a grub screw there you will need a new spring since the grub screw will push down on the spring too hard and making the trigger return hard. now you need to mod the slider so that the pull is extremely long so you can adjust it with that grub screw on the trigger so that it is extremely short (up to 2-3 mm pull mines is at about 2 mm) the slider needs to be either sand it down, or cut it with a DERMEL rotartary drill. only sand or cut what is sticking out ot the trigger, mark it so you know where to stop. make it like a "L". after you have moded the slider, now adjust the screw that is on the trigger return and it will be a really short pull if you get it short enought you wont need trigger stops.


revy mod

this mod, is to make you revy up to caliber with better hoppers.

this will change the 12v voltage regulator to a 18v voltage regulator, that will eat you batterys faster but, the servo motor will spin faster. this is what i was going to do

things that you might need

  1. 24v servo motor
  2. 18v voltage regulator
  3. 24v rechargeable battery pack
  4. 6 prong (or custom weed wacker mod) <-- works with regular 4 prong
  5. intelliget feed mod.
  6. pretty good skills with soldering, drilling, wiring, and stuff like that

first off, rewire the 12v servo motor to the 24v servo motor, switch the 12v V.R. to the 18v V.R. (this you do not really need to do, but it would make the servo spin faster) then wire the new battery pack in, and intelliget you hopper. test and let it rip

i say dont do this untill i try it!

Edited by evil-98

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote For Honor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2004 at 10:21am

Effective Upgrading

1) When buying upgrades for your gun remember it is your gun, you have to ask yourself what do I want to change, not what the people on the forum want to change. You also need to decide what type of gun do you want,(ex. speedball, woodsball, scenario, etc.), answering this question will be key in buying upgrades.

2) It is mutualy agreed that stock barrels suck, most always the first upgrade to buy is a barrel, many people have varying opinions on this subject. Some popular models are Lapco Bigshot, J&J Ceramic, Flatline, Boomstick, and many more. Barrels also vary in price, they range from $35 to $150. Buget also plays a role in upgrading, however more expensive does not always mean better, I believe that a Bigshot is just as good as a Boomstick though there is quite a price difference.

3) The next upgrade is usualy air, you must decide if you are willing to pay alot for the superior Nitrogen, or if you are content with Co2. Most say nitro is better but all say nitro is more expensive so once again the old pocketbook comes into play. However if you do stick with Co2 you will definiantly want to buy a good expansion chamber, these help to keep your Co2 consistent and they keep liquid out of your gun.

4) After you have air and a barrel, you need to make a choice, what type of play do I want my gun to excel at. If you want a speedball gun you may want a drop forward or a fire power upgrade like an R/T and an electronic hopper. Maybe you want a woodsball gun so you get a scope or a remote line. You can also get upgrades for looks, like fake magazines and suppresors, many players get their guns painted, the posobilities are endless.

5)In my expirience 1/4 of the fun in paintball is upgrading and showing off your gun, however this can be expensive and frustrating. As you upgrade your gun remember that it is your gun and that there is no limit.


       -- For Honor

Edited by For Honor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Large Unit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 January 2004 at 11:25pm

!!!!!!Choosing a barrel!!!!!!

We are all sick of this question being asked, hopefully with this guide those of you looking for a new barrel won't have to ask the dreaded question.

:::Good Barrels:::

Their are single barrels and Barrel Kits, the barrel kits have different bore sizes and will match to your paint giving you better accuracy, but at a higher price. If you cant choose still just use choose a random one because all the listed are great.

-Barrel Kits-
Evil Pipe
Custom Products 2-piece
Lapco Snapshot
Smart Parts freak
Powerlyte Scepter
Empire 2-piece

-Single Barrels-
Lapco Barrels
Dye barrels
Evil Driver
Smart Parts barrels
J&J Ceramic
Custom Products 1-piece

-The Flatline-
The Tippmann flatline is so unique it deserves its own explanation. The barrel is curved which creates a backspin giving you an advertised 100 feet extra range and a flat trajectory (no other barrel does this!!!) If your into long balling in the woods this is for you.

:::Barrel accuracy factors:::

-Barrel quality-
You want  a barrel that is very smooth on the inside and micro honed so their are no bumps on the inside.

-Paint quality-
Helps just as much as a new barrel, you want perfectly round paint without any dimples.

-Paint to barrel match-
Paint to barrel match means a lot for both accuracy and air efficiency. You want paint that wont roll down your barrel if you drop it in, but that will come out with a blow of your breath.


Longer barrels: Despite what you hear from some people, longer barrels do nothing but hurt, 8"-16" are the best lengths and all perform the same.

Rifled barrels: Every year or so a company comes out with a rifled barrel and everyone makes a big deal of it, they do nothing to help and if they did work your paintballs would just curve to the side.

!!!Have fun and good luck!!!

Edited by Large Unit
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A-5 Trigger Mods

here are a bunch of a-5 mods...

tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo *done*

New* A-5 mod diagram

evil ----- out


here are a bunch of a-5 mods...


tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo

evil ----- out

pen spring mod

things that you need

  1. (1) pen spring (you might want more so that you can play with it)
  2. (1) A-5

well its basicly what the title is. you get a clicking pen and take out the spring. now take apart the trigger assembly and take off the stock sear spring, and cut the pen spring to the same size as the stock's. if you want the pull to be a bit littler then how it already is. then cut the spring so that it just slides into the spacer and the sear without forcing it in. so the spring just drops in.

this will conclude to a lighter trigger pull


maginet sear mod

things that you need

  1. (2) rare maginets
  2. (1) A-5

again the title is what the mod is. you bacily take to strong rare earth maginets and flip them so that the reple each other. the sear is steel so the maginet will just stick on the the sear without a problem. the spacer is a bit different. you should get a round rare earth maginet and a square earth maginet. the round one for the spacer and the square one for the sear. the round maginet can be forced into the space between the spacer. the other maginet can just stick to the sear. this is a great mod.

this will conclude to a even lighter pull. (aka walkable)

evil-98 wrote:

there is nothing more that i can expanded on it.

all you do is put a strong rare maginet on the sear (where the sear spring pushed up on) and one on the trigger spacer (where the sear spring sits)

how can i be more specifc??


trigger stop

things that you will need

  1. (1) set screw or regular screw
  2. (1) regular power drill
  3. (?) assorted drill bits
  4. (?) taps
  5. (1) A-5

ok a trigger stop is a great mod. it means what it is. it stops the trigger, it stops the trigger from going any further then it needs to. when you pull the trigger you only need to pull enought to trip the sear to release the hammer. well on the A-5 the trigger stop is a big mod. it helps alot. all that you have to do is either drill a hole on the trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger (preferably). after you drill the hole then you tap it to a set screw measurement (preferably 8-32 1/4" or 3/8"set screw). or you can tap the RT hole to a regular screw and screw that into it. then drill a hole on the back of the frame so that you adjust it from the back. now for adjusting it. first cock the A-5 then slowly pull the trigger and at the point of fire adjust the set screw forward untill the A-5 Barly fires, then slow adjust backward so that it pulls with eases. adjust to your likings

this will conclude to a shorter pull


sear mod

things that you will need

  1. (1) small diameter straw (about the same size of the pin)
  2. (1) slightly bigger then the first straw
  3. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8"or 1/2"set screw what ever works)
  4. (1) regular power drill
  5. (?) assorted drill bits
  6. (?) taps
  7. (1) A-5

this is a mod that will either make or break (well not phsicaly break). there are two ways of doing this. you can either use straws, or a set screw. with the set screw is adjustible so it is better. but it is a bit harder, you need to drill and tap a hole on the spacer that holds the sear spring to an angle prefectly if you were to put a set screw there and you adjust it forward that it will push the sear upward when you push the sear foward like the hammer does(the set screw is what i mean by break, if you do it wrong there is no way of fixing the spacer unless you replace it). the other way is that you can cut a straw 1/4" long and put the straw with the same diameter on the pin that the sear rests on, then put the slightly bigger one over the smaller one. if you start to double fire then take the bigger one off. this will make the sear higher so that the pull is lighter and more snappie

this will conclude to a lighter and snappier shot


pretravel mod (preferably with the sear mod)

things that you will need

  1. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8" set screw what ever works)
  2. (1) regular power drill
  3. (?) assorted drill bits
  4. (?) taps
  5. (1) A-5
  6. (optional) vise clamp and drill press)

the pretravel mod is to adjust the prefire of the A-5. this wil make the trigger pull very short preferably done with the sear mod. all that you have do is drill a hole where the trigger return spring so in the trigger or more further so that the trigger return spring can still work right. then tap it to the set screw. screw it all the way so that the set screw is hidden. then assemble it all back together. ok so with the sear mod there is alot of prefire movement. so adjust the screw upward a quarter turn at a time, untill it doesnt fires, then a quarter turn at a time downward so that it fires barly. adjust to your likings.

this will conclude to a shorter pull


maginet return mod

things that you will need

  1. (2) rare maginets
  2. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
  3. (1) A-5

this is a simple mod that anyone can do. just go and but 2 round rare maginets and force on into the trigger spacer, and another that is reverse polarity. either cut the nub off of the trigger return spring of sand it down, and glue the maginet on. that is it

this will conclude to a longer lasting trigger return


no slop mod

things that you will need

  1. (1) sheet of very thin aluinum i.e. like hair line
  2. (1) Dremel
  3. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
  4. (optional) shear
  5. house hold material

this is a pretty nice mod. all that you have to do is take the sheet of aluinum and trace out the trigger plate on to it(preferably smaller then the plate). then cut it out with a shear if possible. after that either drill or sand out the hole for the safety if you need to. then sand the trigger plates down with either 80-60 grit sand paper so that the glue will stick better. then you can glue the aluminum sheets to the out sides of the plate and use the Dremel to sand the inside of the A-5 down a bit so that the trigger assembly fits in with out any movement between the trigger assembly and the inside of the A-5. that is it

this will conlude to a less or no slop trigger


more too come!!! PM me for more info, and if you find any that i havent quiet figured out..


Edited by evil-98

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