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Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read! |
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TippyFreaK03 
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Joined: 08 November 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1126 |
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 Posted: 24 January 2004 at 9:20pm |
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Well, KRL said i should put this in here now so here it is. Also, here is a link to the original thread so you can view all the questions and answers that followed.
http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/forum_posts.asp?TID=72845& PN=1
RT and E-Grip Comparison
Too many people post topics on which is better for the A-5; the E-grip or the Response trigger. I was one of these people once. Through this post I hope to prevent more posts that ask the same question. A-5 Response Trigger The response trigger system is a firepower upgrade available only for the Tippmann 98 and the Tippmann A-5. It is powered by excess gas during blowback. This gas causes a piston inside the response cylinder to jolt forward, which in turn pushes the trigger back to the ready to fire position much faster than the normal trigger return spring can. This is an advantage because if you keep constant pressure on the trigger while moving your finger slightly, you can achieve an almost “full-auto” effect, though it is still 1 ball per pull. This full-auto effect is accomplished by finding the sweet spot. The sweet spot is the right amount of pressure applied to the trigger to achieve constant fire. The piston will push the trigger, along with your finger, back to the ready to fire position almost immediately after the gas charge is released. Therefore, if you keep pressure on the trigger, the force of your finger on the trigger will fire the marker, and the force of the piston on the trigger will push the trigger back to the ready to fire position. The RT is adjustable in that you can adjust the amount of air flowing into the cylinder by turning a screw. The response trigger is capable of, on average, about 15 balls per second. Though a finely tuned RT may achieve a higher rate of fire than that. The response trigger is available as a drop in upgrade for your 98 custom or A-5. It costs between $70-$80 on the web, depending on where you look. Picture E-grip The e-grip is an electronic upgrade for you’re A-5. It replaces the stock grip and looks and feels exactly the same. Unlike the e-bolt (for the model 98), the e-grip is a sear tripper, rather than a true electro pneumatic (e-bolt). the e-grip is capable of reaching a capped limit of 15 balls per second. The rate of fire is selected by using a small screwdriver to change rate. Firing mode is selected in the same way. When you pull the trigger, a switch is released which activates a solenoid. When the solenoid is activated, it trips the sear for you. Since YOU are not tripping the sear, and only releasing a switch on the pull, the trigger pull on the e-grip is very light. Various trigger mods can shorten the pull even more also. The e-grip is powered by a 9-volt battery that sits in the grip itself. This 9-volt battery will power the e-grip for about 3000 shots, at which point, it would need to be changed. To install the e-grip, simply remove the ASA from the bottom of the stock grip, remove the 2 pushpins holding the grip on, and pull it off. Then put the e-grip on where the stock grip was. Return the 2 push pins into the holes holding the grip, and return the ASA to the bottom of the e-grip the same way you took it off. It’s that simple. The e-grip comes with five different firing modes. They are: Full Auto: constant fire while trigger is depressed Semi Auto: one shot per trigger pull 3 round burst: 3 shots per pull; can be stopped in middle of burst if trigger is released Auto Response: one shot per pull and one shot per release Turbo: semi auto until four shots per second is exceeded, at which point it becomes Auto Response mode The e-grip can be purchased for around $115 on the web and will only work on an A-5. Picture The GTA (genuine tippmann accessories) double trigger will increase the performance of both of these upgrades, and will increase rate of fire and decrease pull weight even by itself. A good place to purchase these upgrades and many more is http://www.countypaintball.com/ If anyone has anything that they would like to add regarding these upgrades, or if there is something I missed, please share. Your input is much appreciated. I hope this provides some help to all of you people out there who are trying to decide which of these great upgrades to get. TippyFreaK03 Edited by TippyFreaK03 |
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The A-5's days are numbered...
Now I be rockin teh' 05' Vision Shocker w/ Nerve Board 
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tgaffner
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youm0nt Lite ... and low carbs, too!! Joined: 30 September 2002 Location: Neutral Zone Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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Posted: 19 February 2004 at 5:08pm |
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All about the R/T What is it? The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120. |
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HeadHunter59
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Dial down the center! Joined: 08 May 2003 Location: Milwaukee,WI Status: Offline Points: 2017 |
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Posted: 20 February 2004 at 5:58pm |
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~What you can find Co2 vs. nitro, Helpful things for Co2 and for it to wrk beter in all typs of play, Helpful things for Nitro and for it to work better.~ I Would Like To Thanks Milkman, KRL15,Tippmann Tech People, And My Self. For all this info. ~SOME Was Mine SOME was Others.~ ~Frist~ Co2 vs. Nitro Done By Tippmann Tech
Co2 changes pressure as the temperature changes, the higher the temperature the higher the pressure. The change in pressure is caused from Co2 compressing to a liquid at a fairly low pressure.
As the temperature of the Cylinder increases more of the liquid is boiled into a gas, causing the pressure to increase. The marker is designed to function mainly on the gas portion, but it is very difficult to separate the liquid from the gas. If the valve in your marker is colder than the cylinder, Co2 gas will condense back into a liquid inside the valve. If the two areas are the same temperature, which is normally the case, the valve will draw and use a combination of both liquid and gas. This constantly changing of pressure causes inconsistency in velocity along with inefficiency.
The reason the markers are designed to use Co2, is because Co2 is very abundant and affordable. The CVX valve does an excellent job compensating for this inconsistency giving you excellent efficiency and consistency.
Compressed air is simply outside air compressed at a higher pressure. Outside air contains mostly nitrogen (78%), 21 percent oxygen, and the remaining 1 percent is a mixture of gases. The majority of the gas in compressed air is nitrogen. The difference in performance between nitrogen compressed and air compressed in the paintball marker application is very little if any. Compressed air and nitrogen are very slightly affected by temperature change, which gives better results in shot to shot consistency over Co2. Also with compressed air and nitrogen the marker can be set up to operate off of a preset regulated pressure giving you more gas efficiency. With Co2, the marker has to function at a large variety of pressures. In order to achieve this some efficiency is sacrificed. ~Second~ Done by milkman/I add soem things Helpful Things for Co2/And all typs of things for it to work better For co2 to work better in all types of play you should look into getting these or at least some of these. Frist is and Expansion Chamber-- The Expansion chamber help the co2 expaned so you can get moee consitant shots and for you'r gun wont freeze up if you are in fire fights. You can also get a few more shots beucase you are letting the co2 have more time to expaned and this helps so your guns dosent freeze up. Second LP kit-- The LP kit or Low Pressure kit.A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono. Is a drop in kit that aollows your gun to run better and it works like a Reg(ill get into that later) It replaces the bolt/or valve. When useing this with co2 it well help better the Expansion chambers it well help you greatly when in fire fights and you can run from 50-400psi.(this also helps with HPA/Nitro get into that later.) So people say why would you want to put in $100 some dollors for this. Well this coudl mean you can get more shots per tank,Less recoil, Not as much ball chopping, better consistency. The Tippmann Comp Air kit gives you a lighter rear drive spring, lighter rear bolt, high flow valve, low pressure chamber, and a vertical adapter with t-fitting. With all of these things installed on your 98 Custom along with a regulator, your 98 Custom is capable of operating at 350psi or lower. Remote-- A remote is like a hose that you have that runs for the power tub to the ASA. but more felx able. You put one end in the ASA and one end on the end of your Co2 tank and put it in you poch or what every you would use to carry your co2 tank. This also helps the Co2 have time to expandend. Palmer Stabilizer-- The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here?s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): ?The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.? The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit ~Thired~ Done by Milkman/I add somethings Helpful Things For Hpa to work better. Frist is the LP kit-- what you can also look at in the Co2 section. A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono. Low pressure can have numerous benefits such as: more shots per tank, less ball chopping, less recoil, better consistency, and of course the bragging rights of knowing your gun has a low operating pressure and can achieve all of these things. Regs-- Regs are things that would go were your Hose that connects to the Power tube. A regulator regulates the air flow to your marker. A regulator will take the high pressure gas that is in the tank, and will step it down to a lower pressure, so that it can be safely used in a marker. Palmer Stablizer--- The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here?s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): ?The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.? The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit How many shots can I expect? You can pay up to $500 or a nitro/hpa tank. But the most likely one for ppl to get is 68/4500psi or 88/4500psi. ~Fourth~ Done by my/self How Many Shots For Hap Tank's Here is a list Of how many shots you can get out of the tanks of these sizes. 48/3000 - 480 shots Co2 Shots 9oz- 300 shots 24oz- 1400 to 1600 shots
~5th~ Dont Rember who did it. A little more about Co2 and Hpa First off I want to say that Nitro, N2, and HPA are pretty much the same thing. The air we breathe is about 70% nitrogen. N2 is just the Chemical name for Nitrogen. HPA is the same thing we breathe. Just compressed. Also what SCUBA Divers and Fire Fighters breathe (obviously in a tank). For the sport of paint ball these gasses are the same. Co2 is a little cheper to refill and the tanks are cheaper, but Nitro (HPA) tanks are expensive. Nitro (HPA) is ALOT more consistant, than Co2. It will help to use a Antisiphon Tube with Co2, but Nitro (HPA) doesnot need it. In a Co2 tank (when its full) there is about 30% (+ or - 2%) liquid. The reason why there is liquid is beacuse the Co2 is under so much pressure (about 1800 psi) that it forms a liquid. An anti siphon tube is bent, so it sucks up the gas on top of the tank. A siphon tube is bent down so it sucks up the liquid. Amost all modern guns would bennifit from an anti siphon tube. SOME of the older Tippmans (I belive the SMG 60 and 68?) need siphon tubes. When Nitro is in the full tank, it is a gas, ALWAYS a gas. Never a solid or liquid. And it is under 3000 to 5000 psi. You should NEVER fill Co2 in a Nitro tank! most likley it will explode. ~Fainlly~ Done by Krl15 Filling Own Co2 Tank And Buying own Filling Staion I do suggest that you read up on the topic, and do a couple of fills under the guidance of someone who has experience in filling CO2 tanks. Possible upgrades could include a system to hang it on a wall. An arm could also be installed to act as a hanger for the Fish Scale. The feet could be removable, or folding. The sky is the limit. Heck, you could probably even paint it! +++++++++++++++++ How Many Fills?
Upgrade Compatibility
Done By Tippmann Tech
Low Pressure Kit + Collapsible Stock- Will not work due to the rear cocking mechanism on the LP kit must be utilized, and the stock would prevent the gun from cycling, and being cocked. A side cocking device cannot be used with the LP kit because the spring is so light, and it runs right where the gun would be cocked (if you could make it side cocking) So, you would have to come up with a completely different design for the spring.
Ebolt+ Collapsible Stock- Will not work due to the Ebolt hammer extending out of the back of the gun, there is nothing to hold the Stock on.
Low Pressure Kit + Ebolt- Will work efficient, consistent, produces less recoil, and is very reliable.
R/T + Low Pressure Kit - Will work, but most of the time, you'll need a bigger hose and fitting in between the power tube and the flow control. (Due to the air restriction when using nitrogen or compressed air) If you have the new style flow control (w/ set screw) you'll need the older style flow control (w/ adjuster knob) to be able to accept the higher flowing line. Call our sales dept, and you can order the parts from them directly.
R/T + Ebolt- Will not work. The two systems cannot be installed on the same gun due to fitting issues.
R/T + Collapsible Stock- Will work just fine.
Rocket Cock + LP kit- Will not work. Again, the rear cocking mechanism must be utilized.
RVA + Stocks- Will not work. Since they go in the same area, the two cannot occupy the same area at the same time.
98 Flatline- Will only work on the 98 Custom and M98, and is not compatible with any other gun.
A-5 Egrip- Will only work on the A-5, and is not compatible with any other gun.
A-5 Flatline- Will only work on the A-5, and is not compatible with any other gun.
A-5 R/T + A-5 Egrip- Will not work at the same time. One must be removed, before the other can be installed.
Ebolt- Will only work in the 98 Custom, or it can be retro fitted to the M98 (machined by us only) The Ebolt will not work in any other gun other than the 98 Custom, and a retrofitted M98
Flatline + RT- Will work just fine, and can keep up with high rates of fire Response trigger (r/t) -This is an upgrade available for the 98 custom and the A-5. If you have a normal 98 you might need some machining done to the body to get the response trigger to fit. The Tippmann proshop can retro fit your 98 to accept a r/t trigger if you send your gun into them. I believe some people can install the r/t on a tippmann pro/carbine and I have personally seen a carbine with a response trigger fire before. Although I don't think any company does this modification for the public. done By~ The Kamakze One from Other tippy fourm. -The E-bolt kit is an upgrade for the 98 and 98c only. It may, like the r/t, have to be retro-fitted to a 98 because of the difference between the the recievers. |
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NotDaveEllis
Platinum Member 
Joined: 24 November 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7193 |
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Posted: 22 February 2004 at 1:16am |
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So you finally want to give up the CO2 tank and drop some cash on a Compressed Air Tank. Sounds like a plan. Hopefully the following FAQ will help guide you in the decision making process. Tank Manufacturers There are only three companies that make tanks for Paintball. Carleton CylindersCarelton Luxfer Cylinders Luxfer Structural Composite Industries SCI These three company’s supply the tanks for the various manufacturers, then the manufacturers just put on their own regulator. Tank Distributors/Sellers Below is a list of people that slap on their regulators and sell them to you. ACI Nitrogen Systems-Make the Bulldog I,II,III nitro tanks. ACI **Air America-Make the Me’lee,Raptor-Rex,Apocalaypse,Armageddon tanks Air America Airgun Designs-Make the Flatline tank AGD Centerflag-Make Dynaflow and Hyperflow tanks, and others,limited sizes and kinds. Centerflag *Crossfire-Make a multitude of tanks that come in every size and shape. Crossfire DYE-Make the Throttle Air System. Come in a limited number of sizes DYE EVIL-Make the Scion tank. EVIL Java-A division of Kingman, make the Java tank in various sizes. Kingman PBN2-Distributed by ActionVillage.com. Various sizes. PBN2 *PMI-Pure Energy Tanks, made by PMI. Come in various sizes. PMI Smart Parts-Make the Max-Flo tank. Various sizes Smart Parts System X-Make tanks of various sizes. Do not recommend.. System X WGP-Worrgas tanks. Limited sizes. WGP WDP-Angel AIR tanks WDP *Denotes Recommendation Types of Regulators/Threading Types Tanks will either come in two different kinds of mounting systems. First is the standard threads that are on screw in tanks, these are the same threads as CO2 tanks have, so if you can screw a CO2 tank into the ASA, you can screw a Screw-In Nitro system into that ASA. The second type is mounted, which are mounted on some sort of Dovetail and don’t screw on. High Pressure/Low Pressure Tanks that are not adjustable will either come High Pressure or Low Pressure output. High Pressure is usually set around 850 PSI Low Pressure is usually set around 450 PSI Types of Tanks Tanks will either be Steel or Fiber Wrapped. Fiberwrapped tanks are much lighter than steel tanks, and cost more. Steel tanks generally cost less money and are heavier than a Fiber Wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks require a cover, and need to be treated with more care. Hydro Date Every tank that comes from one of the above makers will have a Hydrostatic Test date on it, as by regulation. Some older tanks have 3 year old Hydro dates. That means the tank has to get hydro tested ever three years. For example, if the test date on a tank. Say the hydro tank is 11-AA-01 the tank needs to be hydroed before the first day of November,2004. On a 5 year tank it would be November, 2006. Shots Per Tank 3000 psi tanks get about 10 shots per ci (cubic inch). for example a 45ci tank gets about 450 shots per fill. 4500 psi tanks get about 15 shots per ci. a 45ci tank will get about 675 shots per fill. 5000 get about 20 shots per ci. A 45 ci tank will get about 900 shots per fill. Tank Care If you get a Fiber Wrapped tank a decent cover is a MUST. It will protect your tank from scratches and dings, while making it last longer. The less scratches and knicks your tanks get, the better for its life expectancy. Steel tanks do not require a cover, but one is nice because usually the cover will have rubber on the back to help the tank grip on your shoulder. Personal Recommendation/Thoughts I personally use and shoot an Air America tank, I wouldn’t trade it in for the world. Lifetime warranty, which means if something is wrong with your tank you’ll only have to pay for parts. I live 20 minutes from them, so it’s a huge plus. I once walked in to get a simple fix (Piece of debris got into tank) and not only did they remove the debris, they went above and beyond and took apart the regulator and gave it a full cleaning and lube job. Excellent service and wonderful people. And whatever you do…..stay away from Angel AIR..its overrated. 
Also be sure to check out MILKMAN'S Tank FAQ in the UberFAQ. This is just a basic guide for buying a tank. |
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ownage
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Guested - Flaming, Racial slurs Joined: 28 January 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 483 |
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Posted: 03 March 2004 at 9:57pm |
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tippmann 98 custom silver
ebolt, lp kit, halo b, lapco powerfeed, 8 inch bigshot ,boblong reg red agd warp feed with intellifeed |
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boarder2k7
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Joined: 29 July 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 183 |
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Posted: 06 March 2004 at 10:49am |
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To fix that annoying hopper rattle that seems to plague most 98s.
You need Black electrical tape Styrofoam 1. Take a small block of styrofoam (approx 1/8in. thick by 1/4in. 2.Place this piece of foam onto a strip of black electrical tape. 3. Firmly place the tape with the styrofoam centered over where the elbow touches the side of the gun. *It will stick out farther than it looks like it should, this is okay* 4. Replace the elbow and latch it shut which will crush the styrofoam down to size to fit. 5. Open the elbow back up and place another strip of electrical tape over the other tape and foam. Make sure that it extends out both sides when the elbow is closed. 6. With the elbow closed CAREFULLY take a sharp knife and cut off the excess. Be carefull not to push too hard or you will cut the paint on the side of the gun. If it doesn't come out well the first time try it again.. sometimes its hard to get the first time you do it. I will try to get step-by-step pictures up soon... Tippmann 98c with an E-bolt and custom blade trigger...took me two hours in the shop with a $3000 milling machine..but it was worth it for the 1/16in. and under one ounce trigger pull..... Yeah.... It ROCKS!!!!!!!! |
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snakeguy282
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GUESTED-F-BOMB Dropped Joined: 08 March 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 399 |
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Posted: 13 March 2004 at 9:48am |
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All about the A-5
The stock A-5: The stock A-5 is ok. It comes with all the parts necessary to take most of it apart quickly, although if you need to take it apart really fast, some of the parts have screws to take them apart. It comes with a barrel, which has holes around the front either for looks or silencing. The stock barrel doesn’t shoot very far, like many of the other stock barrels. The screws that you really should unscrew are on the cyclone feed system. Those rust really quickly, I don’t whether this affects it at all or just looks bad. I would recommend the stainless steel bolts for the stock a-5. However they are silver and shiny and might give you away on the field. But they are worth it if you paint the black. You can get them at countypaintball.com Taking care of the A-5: You should oil your gun frequently. At least once every two weeks, AT LEAST. Every time you oil your gun, you have to take the two back bolts off and pull on the end cap. But do this carefully; the spring that is concealed there for the cocking might pop out if you don’t do it carefully. You should also put some of the oil(like two drops) where you put the Co2. You never want to take the gun completely apart unless you’ve memorized how to put it back together. I made that mistake once, it took me two days to learn how to put it back together. Field playing with the A-5: If you have the right equipment, playing with the A-5 in paintball is really fun. I wouldn’t really want to go out with a stock A-5. A good setup I’ve been thinking is a remote, a harness, Lapco bigshot or some other barrel, an expansion chamber/ drop forward, and an E-grip. This is just one setup, you don’t have to get it. I also like the capabilities of the A-5. As mentioned earlier, it is easy to take apart. This really helps when you need to oil, or clean your gun for some reason. Although I don’t think this is a big advantage on any gun because of all the little pieces that could get lost, and you’d never get them back. Over all, the A-5 is a good field playing gun. Accessories: The A-5 is obviously the newest tippmann and has the most accessories than any other tippmann gun for those who love stuff on their gun. It has many barrels, scopes, barely any hoppers(I wouldn’t be surprised if there wasn’t even one), a lot of drop forwards, and replacement parts. Shooting Capabilities: As everyone knows, the A-5 is very fast. Unless you pull the trigger 30 times a second, I think it will work out. It’s this way because of the Cyclone feed system. If you’ve heard that the A-5 is the gas drinker of the paintball guns, it’s not. It only requires a small bit of Co2 to make it revolve. The automatic guns like E-MAG are, they’re paintball eaters also. With an E-grip, you can shoot so fast. It is all made possible by the cyclone feed system. FAQ: What’s wrong with my A-5, it’s cyclone system isn’t turning?- Man, this happened to me, I was concerned. It’s just a low tank don’t worry. I love my A-5, my only wish is that I had more money to buy stuff for it. Mine is still a stock A-5, but it runs fine. This is definitely better than any other tippmann gun. Especially the pro-carbine because of the trigger pull on it. I have a C02 set up, which is fine on the A-5. It is really fun to go out and play paintball with. I’d give this tippmann gun a nine out of ten because of it’s quality, accessories, and fun things about it. I hope this helped to answer all your questions!!!! |
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jaked588
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Joined: 14 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1319 |
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Posted: 28 March 2004 at 11:00pm |
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easier way to fix hopper wobble: take off the feed elbow and stretch a standard tank o-ring around the bottom of it. thats it.
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speedballer1313
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Almost Fabulous Joined: 05 July 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1310 |
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Posted: 05 April 2004 at 1:32pm |
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AUTOCOCKER UPGRADES
The Autococker is Made by Worr Games Products. There are many parts on an Autococker that do many things. to see this, Look in the "which gun is best" Forum, Go to the tread "great guns". Post #6 Is a complete breakdown of cockers by Simma Down!. Now, For the upgrades. BARRELS The stock barrel on the 03' autococker is loud but pretty accurate. The 04' Autoccker barrels are ported and much more accurate.The newer Some barrels to look into are: Dye Ultralite: It is made out of Aluminum which makes The barrel very light. It is a very quiet 2 piece barrel and has pinpoint accuracy. It also comes in vareties of colors So they can match your gun easily. Freak Kit: A supreme 2 piece barrel with 1 front, 1 back, and 8 inserts to match barrel to bore size. Comes in about every possible color you could think of. Other Barrels To look into: Dye Boomstick $120 J&J Ceramic $40 SP All American $75 BOLTS The stock bolt is big and whenever it gets dirty it stiops working totally. To fix this problem, looking into a Delron Bolt would be a good investment. Worr Games Bolts: All Delrin Bolt:$40 Self lubricating, needs no o-rings to oil. Design is also smaller. WorrBlade Delrin Bolt:$45 Same Self lubricating matrial as above, Is very light and has a o-ring to reduce Blowback. Orr-acle Bolt: $60 Maximum air flow for air consistency, Contains internal Ball Detent. If you do get a delrin bolt without an internal detent, A delron detent Will keep from weating a groove in the bolt. NITRO/HPA Cockers run much more consistent velocity and firing if you run it off nitro. It also quiets down the gun, The tanks last longer and the fills are cheaper. Getting nitro will reduce velocity jumps, which can be very pesky. DROP FORWARD If you are playing speedball, A drop forward is nessacary for comfort. A lot of the angles you need on opposing players will be assited by a drop forward. A drop forward bring the tank down from under you arm to your chest.It helps you wrap around bunkers, etc. There are many to choose from, Just pick one that is comfortable to you. Most drop forwards cosr anywhere from $20-$35. ELECTRONIC HOPPER You will need an electronic hopper for your autococker.Even a stock autococker can get over 10 Bps. Here are some good electronic hoppers: VL Quantum Loader: $30, For the player on a budjet. 140 rd. Doesn't feed very fast. but is a big step from a gravity fed hopper. 12v Revolution:$50, 200 rd.Probably the best one to start with. Feeds up the 13 bps, a good loader. Evolution 2: a step up from the revvy. 200 rd. Feeds up to 17 bps, wont be needed unless you have an electronic cocker, see the next upgrade. There are more But those are all the VL hoppers, which by expeirence seem the best to me. E-BLADE/WORRBLADE These upgrades make your cocker electronic. They are both relativily alike, But the worrblade gives you mroe than the E-blade. The Worrblade is made by Worr Games products The E-Blade is made by Planet Eclipse. WORRBLADE-$450-$500,E-Blade Electronic Double finger trigger frame,Worr Pnuematics, Hammer that has the nyloc screw to lock down the lug so it doesnt loosen or tighten under high ROF, Worrblade Delrin bolt,Breech Sensor(eye) EBLADE-$350-$400,E-blade electronic Blade trigger frame, Eclipse Pnuematics, Breech Sensor (eye) These Upgrades increase your Rate of fire, The E-Blade is only limited by your firing speed and the quality of your autococker.. All Timing is done electronically, No more short-Stroking because the Firing cycle is done automatically. The breech Sensor Prevents the gun from chopping balls, also. HINGE VS. SLIDER TRIGGERS(simma) Sliding triggers were used before hinge triggers came around. Instead of having the trigger pull motion like a hinge, they actually slide straight back. The best upgrade for a slider frame is a roller sear that reduce friction and helps the trigger slide across the trigger plate. PNUEMATICS The Pnuematics is what bring the air to shoot the paintball in the first place. A new 3-Way will help this cycle. There are many diffrent 3-ways to choose from. Worr 3-ways: CT-3 way: New way of timing, By inserting an allen wrech in the front of this 3-way. Works Best with WGP Hinge. Orr-acle 3-way: Timing by hand or Allen Wrench, Is a CT3 with a Spooler Valve Preinstalled. The Spooler Allows you to time by turning it. Regulators are what bring Your Air source into the 3-way, And you want one to have a good air flow. Here Are Some Worr Regulators: Black Magic Regulator: Provides a consistent flow rate, and is externally adjustable. Has custom milling for a lightweight custom upgrade. Ergo Regulator: Same as Black Magic, Without the custom milling. IMO, More comfortable. Palmer Stabalizer-$60, The best regulator as far as comfort and quality go. This is the inline regulator i use on my autococker. If i missed something or you want to be included in the post, please PM me with what you think should be added. Thanks, Adam Edited by speedballer1313 |
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Retired from paintball. No cash, No time, And a girfriend.
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Andy G.
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Joined: 01 August 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 445 |
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Posted: 24 April 2004 at 11:05pm |
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* is it hard to install? it is more complicated to install than a regular barrel, but not hard. it takes about a bag of paint to fine-tune it. once you have it sighted in, draw some reference marks on the barrel and barrel adapter, either by etching lines in or using a metallic sharpie. all set! * Some people say that balls curve up? look, heres a little math lesson lets say the curve-up of the ball is + gravity is - + plus a - = 0 or it "cancel out" giving you zero drop and zero curve-up. lesson over * Can I shot around corners? in reality, no turning your gun sideways will not give you a 90 degree shot. your shot will only curve a couple of inches. * ballbreak!!! how do I clean it out?? there are different ways to clean it out: 1: taking the barrel off and clean it out thoroughly by soaking it in warm, soapy water. (this is a timely, but thorough way to clean out a ballbreak, do it at home) 2: pre-soaking cotton balls (hehe balls!) in alcohol and storing them in a zipbag. when you get a ball break load up a cotton ball into the breach and fire it. the cotton ball will push some of the paint out of the barrel, the alcohol will loosen up some of the paint. repeat this process until you feel satisfied your barrel is clean. 3: this ,I think, is the most effective way to do it.have a small spray bottle of alcohol handy. something around the size of your fist. first, run a four-disk squeegee through the ball. second, spray the alcohol a couple of times down the barrel. run the squeegee through again. squeaky clean! * What kind of squeegee should I use? use any four-squeegee that will allow you to run it through the breech. * What kinda paint should I use? ANY BRAND WILL WORK just as long as its not super fragile. remember tippmanns are high pressure guns. of course the more expensive paint is a little better. * Whats this I hear about flatline wearing out? they say that after extended use the paintballs will polish the inside of your gun creating less friction= less rotation= loss of distance. this might happen to some people. I don’t I know if its true or not. Ive fired at least 3000 rounds and have had little problems with it. if this does happen, send it to tippmann and they will re-sandblast it for you no charge. * Is it accurate? the flatline gives the benefit of longer trajectory. at 150 feet it is pretty accurate. it also gives flat trajectory at this distance. at around 150+ feet gravity, and wind start affecting your gun, giving you less accuracy. * Is it worth buying?? yes, its up to you to make the decision, but if you do buy it and take the time to install it correctly I guarantee you will not regret it. if you have any other questions, again, just PM me.Or if you want a faster response, you can E-mail me- yourfalseidol@yahoo.com Edited by Andy G. |
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"my hands are shaking from fear,white from clutching my pride,
red from cutting you, and blue from telling lies." IM- xyourfalseidolx |
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<Ridd
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Joined: 22 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 41 |
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Posted: 22 June 2004 at 9:58am |
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Updated 6/23/04
Notice the difference in head heights. You can pick these up from your local hardware store (maybe), www.mcmaster.com, paintball stores or Tippmann themselves. Please note that you won't find these odd lengths. It's better to go long and cut to size (so that the screw thread end is flush to nut). LOW HEAD BLACK OXIDE FINISH CHART: You're probably asking "Why the odd lengths?". Yeah, that's what I thought too. But let's say for the smaller receiver screws...If you use 5/8" in length, it's too short. If you use 3/4", it's too long (the threads stick out too much from the nut). Here's what I did: I bought a bunch of #10-32 x 1 1/4" and cut them to length using a boltbuster ( www.boltbuster.com ). Or you can use the bolt cutter on a wire stripper if you're manly. As for the bottom bolts that hold your tank adapter or drop forward, I recommend using a #10-32 x 1" for both. It works fine. 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL CHART The 1/4" Screw, Nut & Washer on the feed elbow are the same spec's as the Black Oxide Finish. ADDITIONAL INFO Edited by <Ridd |
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HeadHunter59
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Dial down the center! Joined: 08 May 2003 Location: Milwaukee,WI Status: Offline Points: 2017 |
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Posted: 17 July 2004 at 11:25am |
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Your paintball marker needs maintenance and adjustments. It is not a toy!
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FlatlinePwnage
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Guested - S-Bomb & spamming Joined: 30 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 83 |
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Posted: 27 July 2004 at 11:15am |
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i'd have to go with g-unit
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Tippmann 98 Custom
Flatline Barrel System Pistol (james bond style) and i can still shoot further than ur 1500$ guns |
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Master Shake
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Joined: 30 July 2004 Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Posted: 30 July 2004 at 8:21pm |
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First off, I have a 14" GTA sniper Barrel, and my gun is more accurate than a person with an 18" Boomstick, and has about the same range as a Flatline. Belive me, I know. Second, the 98 Flatline chops alot of balls, wheras with the A-5 Flatline, they put more time and effort into it. But, the Flatlines are meant for range, and not as much accuracy. If you want an accurate barrel, get the GTA 14". Range is good, but it doesn't matter if you can't hit anything.
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-----NEW GUN-----
CLASS Lasoya SignatureDark Angel IR3 14" Dye Ultralite Shocktech Dropforward Shocktech On/Off VL Egg (2)47/3000 Nitro Tank Styla Raptor Trigger A-4 Reg 2 Spike |
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LordJovian
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Joined: 01 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1882 |
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Posted: 04 August 2004 at 2:45pm |
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What order should I upgrade??? Edited by LordJovian |
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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98c OwNaGe
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Joined: 06 August 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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Posted: 06 August 2004 at 9:10am |
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kool!
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98c
Trigger Stop Red Dot Pointer Flatline Barrel Redz 2+1 Harness GTA Double Trigger Steel Screws http://tippmann.com/players/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID =109849&PN=1&TPN=1 |
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ziggymarley
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Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 812 |
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Posted: 26 August 2004 at 3:39pm |
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Alright, i got off my rear and decide to finally put up the "Velocity screw mow." This was mentioned by another member so I will not take credit for it as my idea, but these are my pics and own writing. Sorry, forgot the member who did this mod...who ever you are, good work, great mod.
This mod is to permanently seal the stock velocity adjuster hole on the model 98 and model 98c powertubes. Tippmann velocity adjusters are not the most effficient and reliable way to change speed IMO, but it is inexpensive. Here's the mod... Here's your powertube. The valve and everything is stripped out. 
Screw in the screw so that the outside is flush with the outside of the tube. notice how much of the screw is inside blocking the air passage. Count the number of threads starting from the end and remove screw. 
I found a vise works well to hold the screw while cutting it. You can use a hack saw to cut, but i found that the Dremel cutting disks worked very well. Remember how many threads you counted and use some tape or even "white-out" fluid to mark the line you want to cut so you have a target line. Also, safety is a must. use some protective goggles, glasses, or something used for face protection so that no debris or sparks hit your face or more importantly, your eyes. 
A pic before the surgery and watching the velocity adjuster screw stare in fear of the cutting disk.... 
Here's a pic of the cut, i should have taken one of me cutting it...sparks were flying everywhere... 
After milling and grinding my other gun down, I am a fan of the Dremel. Make sure you sand down the sharp edges with either a metal file or the sanding drums. 
Check and make sure the screw fits...check the inside to make sure it isn't too far in or out on the outside. You'll want the screw to be flush with the outside and inside of the tube. 
Flush...very flush, this is a pic of the outside after putting it in, I also checked inside, there wasn't any blockage. 
Here is a measurement of the stock screw (top) and the modded cut screw (bottom) 
I used loctite to keep the screw in place. Any type of thread locker would work if you really feel the need to use it. 
This is a dark pic, sorry about that...but the tube is in and the screw doesn't stick out. The velocity screw is one of the main problems when stripping your shells. Even with all the screws out, the stock screw, if out enough, will keep both halves together 
I hope this mod helps... ziggy edit: man, all my pics are down :( Edited by ziggymarley |
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"Real markers have gills."
"son of a <KRL>." |
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Play Maker27
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Joined: 25 August 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 0 |
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Posted: 30 August 2004 at 1:06pm |
hahahh gj |
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Tippmann A-5
-E-Grip -Unimount -32* Remote -Blade Trigger -Redz Harness -Flatline Barrel -Palmers Stabalizer Fund: 117/680 |
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Plante222
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Joined: 26 August 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: 31 August 2004 at 2:10am |
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BAhhhhhhh i bought a lapco bigshot 14"
does that really mean i did bad, is it that big of a waste? Nice thread btw lots of info |
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Tippmann forever
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White's Return
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Strike 1 - Filter dodging Joined: 07 September 2004 Location: Nicaragua Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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Posted: 21 October 2004 at 4:34pm |
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E-Bolt Guide and Tips We all know the most pouplar speed upgrade for 98 Customs and occasionally the Model 98 is the GTA E-Bolt and the BSI E-Bolt. Now for those of you who can't decide which one to buy or look into, heres a few differences. GTA E-Bolt: The GTa differs from the BSI E-Bolt in a few ways. For one, the GTA is capped at around 13bps, but can cylce faster depending on your setup. It wont get over 16CPS due to the RAM, it is mechanically set to restrict over 16CPS. The GTA LPR (Low-Pressure Regulator) also differs from the BSI LPR. The GTA LPR is a modified PMI Thor Regualtor, they're not know for their performance. By this I mean they don't function like the BSI LPR. Some people get a bad performing LPR and some get a good one. The board and electronic valve on the GTA kit is also different, it is located in the main grip area, and the electronic valve is attached to the board. The switch that activates the solenoid, is placed on 2 pins where the sear use to be, and tightens into place. BSI E-Bolt: This kit is almost completely different than the GTA E-Bolt. Number one, the RAm is a different type than the GTA one, and cycles much faster. The board is seperate from the electronic valve and is located at the top of the grip. The elctronic valve is right below it. The switch that activates the solenoid is attached to the board, which is great so you dont have to deal with its position, and also allows a much lighter pull. The battery housing is also different because it has 2 holes on the outside. One for the slider switch, and one for te LED light which indicates the power status and blinks while shooting. The LPR is also a main focus of this kit. Why? Because it's a modified Palmer, which most Tippmann owners know that Palmer Regulators are superior. This mounts to the included 2 hole ASA. This kit also differs in a favorite way to most people. the Semi-Auto mode is capped at 30BPS which will allwo great ROF, but wont cycle that fast due to the RAM, but still gets good ROF. Now for some tips.................. The main issue to E-Bolts when first purchased scares the owner.In my case, I aired it up, and it didn't shoot, but I just needed to adjust a few things. #1. Make sure your LPR is allowing air flow, but make sure it has no leak or you will lose pressure. #2. Adjust your velocity to the maximum, then tune it to what it should be set at. #3. Play around with your DWELL, that is what the problem was for mine, i just cranked it to the right all the way. Make sure with the BSI and the GTA kit, that you dont have hoses or wires in the moving area of the RAM, or they will get pinched and wreck them. Theres a trick on http://www.model98.net to help precent this. Now for the main controversy. People have had there board fried by using CO2 non-anti-siphoned. This can happen, but doesnt commonly occur. It is reccomended to use N2/Compressed Air, but not required. I peersonally use my GTA E-Bbolt on Co2 and nitrogen, and I have'nt had problems. I recommend not to let your gun ice up though, because you might get your board coated in ice, and that CAN fry your board. Your gun will be majorly inaccurate with CO2, mine shoots and about 20 feet, the ball goes straight up in the air. Now on nitro, its very accurate. if you dont know why this happens, its because the CO2 causes velocity spiking. Now for those who want to know if theres any upgrade boards out there, hers all that I know of. #1. Morlock Board (Requires Modifiying) #2. WAS Equalizer (Not Released Yet, and a rumor that it might not come out due to the lack of demand). LMK if theres one I missed. If your curious what my setup is to see how my gun works with it, here it is. 98 Custom (Silver) with polished internals, GTA E-Bolt (GTA LPR ditched for a sledgehammer LPR), GTA Double Trigger, Shocktech Drop and 2 Hole ASA, HP 3-way Hose for E-Bolt, Macroline Kit, 14" Lapco Bigshot. My trigger pull is measured in at 2mm, and is walkable. Links: Thanks, |
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(this mod may need replacement every once in a while)
LordJovian wrote: