Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

Paint the Town Red

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The most basic piece of paintball equipment is the paintball itself. Just as in tennis or soccer, the ball is the central element of a paintball game. But unlike these older games, paintball has dozens, often hundreds, of "balls" in play at any one time. As the name implies, these balls are actually tiny containers of paint.

Paintballs have an incredibly simple construction. They're actually a lot like gel-cap pills, or bath-oil beads. They consist of a glob of colored liquid encased in a gelatin capsule. The "paint," which comes in many colors, is non-toxic, biodegradable and water soluble (so it will wash off skin and clothing).

Basically, a paintball is like a small water balloon, weighing only a few grams and measuring only 0.68 inches (1.7 cm) in diameter. The capsule holds up if you handle it or drop it from a short distance. When you shoot a paintball from a gun, however, it bursts on impact and leaves a 6-inch (13-cm) splatter of paint.

The job of the paintball gun, sometimes called a marker, is to get the paintball moving at a high rate of speed. In the basic gun, the propulsion system is compressed gas. This gas, which can be compressed carbon dioxide (CO₂), nitrogen (N₂) or ordinary air, is stored in small cartridges or larger tanks that can be attached to the gun. The gun is also attached to a hopper, which holds the paintballs.

Photo courtesy WARPIG.com Modern paintball guns come in all shapes and sizes, in both rifle and pistol designs.

Different guns have different firing systems, but the basic idea in all of them is the same. The gun is cocked in some way so that a paintball can fall out of the hopper and enter the gun's barrel. Then a small burst of compressed gas is released into the barrel, just behind the paintball. The compressed gas pushes the paintball from behind with much greater force than the air on the other side of the paintball, so the paintball is propelled forward.

In order to make the game safe, the power of paintball guns is strictly regulated. Guns in play are adjusted so that the top speed of the fired paintball is 300 feet (91 m) per second. A paintball moving at this speed is unlikely to cause serious injury if it hits your skin, though it will sting and may leave a bruise. Also, since wind resistance starts slowing the paintball down as soon as it leaves the gun, it has a reduced impact when fired from a greater distance. Speeding paintballs can cause serious injury to the eyes or ears, so paintball players always wear head protection.

The relatively slow projectile speed significantly limits the range of paintball fire: The paintball will fall to the ground in a much shorter distance than a faster projectile, such as a bullet. For this reason, firing a paintball gun is a sort of hybrid between firing a gun and throwing a ball. To hit somebody at a distance, the shooter has to tilt the gun up a little bit, so the paintball flies up in the air in an arc, like a football, and comes down on the target.

There are a variety of gun designs on the market, each with a slightly different system, but they are all based on the same principles. In the next section, we'll find out how guns generally work by examining the specific mechanism in a basic "pump" gun, a design that dominated paintball in the game's early days.

There has been many people wanting to know how to make their
mehanical triggers walk-able, so I decided that I'm up to the task to put
together an article that has it all.

Step 1: This is for those people that still have single triggers. You're not
going to be able to walk a single trigger, so first we need to make a
double. This can be easily dont by cutting off the bottom where it starts
to bend, drilling a small hole up through the middle, and glueing
something round up there. One easy thing to use is a hex key. Be carefull
when doing this because if the hole is too small then you can crack the
trigger. After you are finished drilling it, find a allen wrench that fis snug,
but so you can get it up there. (god that sounds stupid) Use either epoxy
or JB Weld to glue it in, then measure for length and cut off the part
where it bends. Me and RedBull both did this and currently use it on our
setups. In fact I had a GTA double and sold it after using this.



Step 2: If you already have a double trigger then the first thing that we
are going to do is get rid of the slop in the pull. This can be done easily
by finding a drill bit with a diameter of .1285 inches, or if you cant tell,
one that fits more snug into the pin hole in the trigger. You want to put
this in the front one from which the trigger pivots on. This will make it
less wobbly, and shorter in some cases.


Step 3: The next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and make a
rear trigger stop. This will get rid of all the excess pull after the sear is
engaged. There are a few ways to do these and I will start off with the
rear. (hehe) This can be done by tapping the R/T hole, and putting a
screw in there. The right size tap for this hole is a 1/4-20, and then you
need a 1/4 20 threaded bolt. You can either put the head inside or
outside. If it is outside then it will be easier to adjust, but if it is inside
then it will look nicer. It is up to the user. Or you can use your single
trigger guard. To use your single trigger guard, cut it near the end where
it goes into the bottom of the trigger. You can now do a few things, either
A- just file it down and do not use any screw, just use the plastic. B- File
it down until it is flush, drill out a hole and tap it using a set screw
(recommended 5/16, with 4-40 tap), or C- do the same as "B" but use a
regular screw. Either way will be fine.


Step 4: Now we are going to make a front trigger stop. This will help to
shorten your pre trigger pull. There area few ways to do this. The "best"
way to do this is to drill a hole through the part of your trigger where the
spring rests. Then you can tap it and put a set screw in there and have it
fully adjustable. You can even go another step and drill a a small hole in
the bottom of the gun to make it adjustable from the outside. Another
way to do this (or if your lazy) is to apply some duck tape or something
on the power tube between that and the trigger. I highly do not
recommend this because it is not very good cosmetic wise, and it is a
pain to adjust by layering tape. Here is a few pics of some Evil triggers
that have set-screws...



Step 5: The next thing to do is to polish the recievers where the trigger
moves on. This helps to get rid of the powdercoat and it will make your
pull smoother and possibly lighter. This can be done either with a dremel
and buffing wheel, or steel wool. With either application you should use
mothers or some other polish.



Step 6: The next thing to do is to change some springs. I suggest either
getting rid of your trigger spring, or replacing it with a pen spring. It will
work fine with no spring because the sear will reset it, but if you dont
want it flopping around when you have no air in it, and it is not cocked,
then go ahead and throw one in. Another thing that you can do, but I
don't necessarely reccomend is to put an extra link in your sear spring.
This will make the sear lighter and and in turn the trigger pull. If you do
this wrong though it can lead to double firing, so only do this if you have
a good understanding of the gun. Another thing that you can do, but I
certainly do not recommend is replacing your sear spring with
orthodontic rubber bands. These wear out and can lead to double firing.
Some people swear by this mod though so try it out and see if you like it.
The last spring that can be changed is the drive spring. You can either
replace it with the green one from the maddman kit, or the lpk rear
cocking apparatus. Either will lessen the weight put onto the sear, making
it easier to trip.




Step 7: Practice, practice, practice... Practice, and more practice.. There
ya go NN...


This should make your trigger pull very nice, and if done right, probably
walk-able. I take no responsibility if you ruin any part of your gun by
doing any of these mods. Thanks to Evil-98 for letting me use his
picture.. And NN and _m98_ for their hel
....i found this, i didn't write this.

You are now going to learn how to relocate a 9 volt battery for your ebolt into your foregrip

Supplies needed:

Dremel
Extra Wire
Soldering Iron
Ebolt
98

Start by taking your foregrip out
 

Then, open it up. take a dremel (or sandpaper, a pain prolly), and do what i did in the circled areas


Upper circle- Dremeled out hole where wires run (The wires run from the battery, up through hole, through recievers[You know, the ridge where tubing for a vertical adapter goes], and finally , after the ridge for the vertical adapter ends, continue a small ridge with your dremel untill you can get access to your trigger frame, where the board is located.)

In the large middle circle, I ground out that thing that sticks out there untill i could fit the head of a nine volt in there cleanly. If you are going to put some sort of 9v adapter in, you may need to both grind more out, and cut your adapter down, like this
 

Also, in that picture you can see the wire hole better

In the bottom circle, i simply made a ridge so the battery could fit properly

Lastly, To run the wire to the trigger, quickly dremel a slot inbetween the powertube and the body to run it in, and also dremel a ditch under the trigger to the board


Congratulations, you now know how to relocate your ebolt battery into your foregrip

Edited by Frobs - 30 June 2006 at 3:09pm

All you really have to do is put the battery in the forgrip and close it back up. Make sure you have wiring that connects to the E-Grip.

WKS_weiner wrote: There has been many people wanting to know how to make their mehanical triggers walk-able, so I decided that I'm up to the task to put together an article that has it all. Step 1: This is for those people that still have single triggers. You're not going to be able to walk a single trigger, so first we need to make a double. This can be easily dont by cutting off the bottom where it starts to bend, drilling a small hole up through the middle, and glueing something round up there. One easy thing to use is a hex key. Be carefull when doing this because if the hole is too small then you can crack the trigger. After you are finished drilling it, find a allen wrench that fis snug, but so you can get it up there. (god that sounds stupid) Use either epoxy or JB Weld to glue it in, then measure for length and cut off the part where it bends. Me and RedBull both did this and currently use it on our setups. In fact I had a GTA double and sold it after using this. Step 2: If you already have a double trigger then the first thing that we are going to do is get rid of the slop in the pull. This can be done easily by finding a drill bit with a diameter of .1285 inches, or if you cant tell, one that fits more snug into the pin hole in the trigger. You want to put this in the front one from which the trigger pivots on. This will make it less wobbly, and shorter in some cases. Step 3: The next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and make a rear trigger stop. This will get rid of all the excess pull after the sear is engaged. There are a few ways to do these and I will start off with the rear. (hehe) This can be done by tapping the R/T hole, and putting a screw in there. The right size tap for this hole is a 1/4-20, and then you need a 1/4 20 threaded bolt. You can either put the head inside or outside. If it is outside then it will be easier to adjust, but if it is inside then it will look nicer. It is up to the user. Or you can use your single trigger guard. To use your single trigger guard, cut it near the end where it goes into the bottom of the trigger. You can now do a few things, either A- just file it down and do not use any screw, just use the plastic. B- File it down until it is flush, drill out a hole and tap it using a set screw (recommended 5/16, with 4-40 tap), or C- do the same as "B" but use a regular screw. Either way will be fine. Step 4: Now we are going to make a front trigger stop. This will help to shorten your pre trigger pull. There area few ways to do this. The "best" way to do this is to drill a hole through the part of your trigger where the spring rests. Then you can tap it and put a set screw in there and have it fully adjustable. You can even go another step and drill a a small hole in the bottom of the gun to make it adjustable from the outside. Another way to do this (or if your lazy) is to apply some duck tape or something on the power tube between that and the trigger. I highly do not recommend this because it is not very good cosmetic wise, and it is a pain to adjust by layering tape. Here is a few pics of some Evil triggers that have set-screws... Step 5: The next thing to do is to polish the recievers where the trigger moves on. This helps to get rid of the powdercoat and it will make your pull smoother and possibly lighter. This can be done either with a dremel and buffing wheel, or steel wool. With either application you should use mothers or some other polish. Step 6: The next thing to do is to change some springs. I suggest either getting rid of your trigger spring, or replacing it with a pen spring. It will work fine with no spring because the sear will reset it, but if you dont want it flopping around when you have no air in it, and it is not cocked, then go ahead and throw one in. Another thing that you can do, but I don't necessarely reccomend is to put an extra link in your sear spring. This will make the sear lighter and and in turn the trigger pull. If you do this wrong though it can lead to double firing, so only do this if you have a good understanding of the gun. Another thing that you can do, but I certainly do not recommend is replacing your sear spring with orthodontic rubber bands. These wear out and can lead to double firing. Some people swear by this mod though so try it out and see if you like it. The last spring that can be changed is the drive spring. You can either replace it with the green one from the maddman kit, or the lpk rear cocking apparatus. Either will lessen the weight put onto the sear, making it easier to trip.

just wondering but would this set up work with an response trigger set up

 

----------SUPER RT----------

I hope this helps make it easier to understand what you need and where to get them... (Besides lying to Tippmann about having a LPK...)

The BASIC Super RT mod consists or these parts:

(12") 1/8" hose
(2ea) 1/8" barb to replace the normal 1/16" barb on the control valve and one to put in the QEV
(1ea) 1/8" to 1/8" "T" banjo fitting (swivel or adjustable)
(1ea) QEV

This way requires you to change out the barb on your control valve... You run the risk of ruining your valve all together...

Here is a parts list from Clippard http://www.clippard.com/store/... Not all these Clippard parts are online, but they are in thier catalogue... I suggest calling to place the order...

1/8 hose  (only sold in 50' rolls) part# URH1-0804-BKS-050  (solid black)
1/8 Barb part# 11752-1   (or nickle plated part# CT4)
Banjo "T" part# UT0-4004
QEV part# MEV-2

Tippmannparts http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60  also makes a super RT kit but it does not include a QEV... I suggest getting a QEV from Palmer http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/... You will also need a 1/8" barb to go along with this QEV... This QEV is an adjustable one whereas the Clippard one is not... Where the Clippard one screws on is where it sets... It may need added O-rings to get it to line up where you want... Tippmannparts also sells the 1/8" hose in shorter sections, but they don't say how long they are...

Palmer QEV part# PNEU053  (it's called  QEV 10-32 Swivel Lock)
Tippmannparts hose part# 20-19

The OPTIONAL parts for this mod are a new flow control valve that you can adjust with your fingers and an "L" fitting to change the direction of the control valve (so it doesn't stick out the side of your gun a mile)...

here are the Clippard part #'s

control valve part# MFC-3AK2
"L" fitting Part# 15002-1

 

REMEMBER: When ordering this stuff, everything is 10/32 threads and 1/8" hose/barbs... If your not sure about all this, I suggest looking up your nearest Clippard dealer and dealing directly with a knowledgable human being... They can make sure you get what you want... I also highly recomend getting extra O-rings... As well as getting some Loctite to "loc" your barbs in place...

 

Edited by XArmy - 10 February 2006 at 4:25pm

IN DEPTH SUPER R/T + QEV TUTORIAL

If you are like me, you thought the super r/t would be an easy mod.  You call Tippmann, they send you the parts, you put them on.  Once you get them, you realize you don't have exactly what you need to properly connect everything.  Here I will show you the easiest way to complete a full Super R/T and QEV setup.

First off, what is the logic behind the Super R/T?  By changing the hoselines and connectors from 1/16" to 1/8", you greatly increase the airflow to the R/T.  This in turn gives the R/T the ability to cycle faster, and will in most cases allow a rate of fire of 20 balls per second, sometimes more.  Some of you woodsballers may say that is useless, but it is not the only use for the Super R/T.  The larger hoses actually allow the user to hold the sweetspot of the R/T much easier, and for greater periods of time.  This means you will more than likely be able to maintain an almost effortless 12-15 bps, maybe higher depending on your tolerance.  Remember, the R/T doesn't just have to be tuned for speed.

The next question to clear up is how does the QEV affect the cyclone system?  When the stock cyclone cycles with the marker, air is forced into the chamber attached to the feeder and it cocks the cyclone, after the paintball has left the barrel and pressure is released, the cyclone is triggered and uncocks, spinning it and loading a new ball.  The air that was in the cyclone is forced back into the body of the marker.  By adding a QEV, the air is allowed to escape directly out the end of the cyclone, allowing it to cycle faster.  You need to understand that the cyclone does not spin when pressure is applied, but when pressure is released.  You can see this yourself by pushing the manual button.


On to the fun part!

What You Will Need:
-1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)*
-Banjo "T" Fitting (or regular Banjo Fitting without cyclone)*
-1/8" ID Line (gun to adjuster)*
-Clippard MEV (or QEV of your choice)
-Pack of 1/8" barbs
-1/8" ID Line (gun to QEV)

*Parts provided by Tippmann


Step 1:  Notice the difference.

Here are the standard fittings and hoselines (1/16"):


1.) 1/16" Banjo "T" (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/16" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) 1/16" Banjo (10/32 threading)


Step 2:  Preparing to install.

Befor installing the parts onto the actual marker, there are a few things to connect and mess around with.

First, you should connect the 1/8" adjuster fitting to the Banjo "T" fitting using an appropriately sized ID hoseline (all provided by Tippmann).  Make sure to connect both fittings with the threading facing the same way. 


The QEV:

The QEV has no way to attach to the hoseline, so a barb must first be attached.  Screw a single 1/8" barb into the "Input" side of the QEV.  Now, you may hold the QEV near to the marker to determine the exact size of ID hose you must cut to attach the QEV to the Banjo "T".

After you have cut the proper length hose, attach it to the Banjo "T" with the threading of the "T" facing left and the threading of the QEV facing down.


Installing the Super R/T:

Now you will want to attach these parts to the actual marker.  Befor attaching the QEV, you may want to note that it will be facing the wrong direction when properly secured.  To solve this problem, many people file down the cyclone for it to fit properly, but I simply removed o-rings from the extra barbs (it comes in a pack of 5) and put them onto the QEV until it would secure in the proper direction.  Be sure to add a small amount of oil if you are doing this.

Now, simply make sure the stock fittings are removed, and secure the QEV, as well as attach both the rear adjuster and the Banjo "T".

This is what the setup should look like:


1.) 1/8" Banjo "T" fitting (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) QEV
4.) Exaust side of QEV
5.) O-rings

Here it is from a different angle:


1.) 1/8" Banjo "T" fitting (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) QEV
4.) 1/8" Barb fitting

Now you are essentially done the Super R/T + QEV mod on your A-5 or 98.

If you would prefer to find a Clippard parts dealer rather than purchase these parts over the internet (to avoid shipping etc.) do as follows:

1.) Go HERE
2.) Select your country.
3.) Enter other information it asks for (zip/postal etc.)
4.) Scroll down, and information on the nearest dealer will be displayed.

Now go get it tuned, and have some fun!

^ Wrong place to post!! And you are WRONG. Tippmann sells barrels in different lenghs because some people like longer/shorter barrels. Its all depends on the player. YOU ARE WRONG!!!

Nearly a year later, i edited the battery relocation into the foregrip mod to include instructions on how to run the wire

^^^^Noice.  I personally like 14's.  They are a comprimise.  Ive used 12's and 14's.  The 14 have a smaller shot grouping at the same velocity.