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Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

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pooperscooper View Drop Down
I’m not sure where to post this...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pooperscooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 2:35pm
I have a 15 Inch barrel and its a little more accurate than a 14 I think but doesnt slow the paintball as much as a 16

Those people at WarpedSportz are smart
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Lightningbolt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lightningbolt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2006 at 9:35am

This is a quick tutorial on modifying the battery contacts on an evo hopper.  If you have any questions feel free to pm me.  I may update this post with additional evo info from time to time.

Take apart the evo leaving the internals in the left half.  This keeps the wires in their proper place.

Pull the battery contacts off the circut board and drill a small hole in each of them.  You need to make sure the holes line up with the center of the positive and negative contacts on a 9 volt battery.  This material is very hard and may require a few drill bits.  You can see how small the screw and nut are in the picture above. Then attach 2 positive and 2 negative battery contacts to each contact from the hopper and grind down the excess thread.

You need to bend the contacts on the hopper so they are relatively flat.

Put it back together and the batteries no longer rely on pressure from the battery door to maintain contact.  The batteries completely clear the door.

You can get the contacts at Radio shack or bust apart a 9 volt battery.  The contacts on the batteries seem to be higher quality.  The rivets need to be ground off on the under side of the contacts.

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nicolayster View Drop Down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicolayster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 9:48am

What is a good vertical expansion chamber for 98 custom

please post websites...:p

Cyclon loader
Apex 14" barrel
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deviant View Drop Down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deviant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 January 2007 at 12:58pm

Originally posted by WKS_weiner WKS_weiner wrote:

There are two ways to polish the internals of a 98c. one way is to use
steel wool...

it cost about $2. you can find it at any hardware store. but make sure you
get the right kind....

...make sure you get #000. as shown in this pic. you don't wan't to
messup your gun or anything. first step...

take apart your gun. remove all the inernals. then clean up all the gun oil
that is on the left and right receivers..

...when you start polishing the receviers...

....the best place's to start are the, back and front bolt areas, in the area
were the linkage arm moves Around, in the area were the sear moves
around and any other place you feel like. just remember to polish the
same areas on both recivers. also when you use steel wool to polish the
98c i may get alittle messy. so when your done wash off both recerviers
with running water and dry throughly. make sure no left over steel wool is
on both receivers. if there is this will cause major problems. when done
washing and drying put gun back together and you are done.this will help
your 98c in the long run...
the other way is to use a dremel tool. i don't have one yet so if someone
has one please post how to on this thread, thank you. using steel wool is
the cheapest way to polish the internals but not the easiest way. also if
you own an a-5 you can polish your internals also the same way you can
a 98c.


Thanks for this tut! There is a noticable difference in the smoothness of my marker now.

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masly21 View Drop Down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote masly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 February 2007 at 1:05am

hi rhino, i havea RT and Cyclone, in my 98c,with a flat line barrel, how can make the flat line more accuraci, because the ball goes every were and to to the enemy. thx

el dj
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WGP guy2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 February 2007 at 8:28pm
These are a few mods I have done to my Evolution Loader.  Please note that some of them require alteration to the loader than cannot be reversed (except for buying a new piece of plastic) and I am not responsible if you screw it up.

The Force Feed Mod

Something that I have seen advertised for eggs is that they are force feed hoppers.  This is not entirely correct.  Due to the nature of the design, there is absolutely nothing preventing balls from endlessly spinning around the track and not going into the neck.  This solves that.

This is a picture of what a stock tray looks like.  To see what I am explaining for yourself, take your egg, put 6 balls in the tray.  Make sure none of them fall into the neck while you put them in.  Tilt your egg at any angle greater than 0 degrees (meaning level, tilting backwards), and you will observe the balls do not fall into the neck.

Now, what this mod does is block the balls from continuing around the track.  I simple hot glued the second smallest k'nex shaft immediately to the left of the neck, as close to the impeller as I could, pointing strait towards the center of the impeller.  Now when the ball hits the piece, it will follow it right into the feed neck.

Now you can tilt your egg anywhere from 0 to (theoretically) 89 degrees and the balls will be forced into the feed neck.  I cannot give an exact BPS feed increase with this mod, but I can guaruntee you will see one.  I estimate at least 5 bps increase.  Its one of the cheapest mods too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thejudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 April 2007 at 1:42pm


While I am not an expert on the subject I have found quite a good amount of info on certain barrels.

For woodsball the flatline is great.  It gets good distance and can hold quite a few people down.  The bad part is that any little bit of wind makes the ball fly off target.  Also if they are far enough away they can literally watch your paintballs flying and step out of the way.  Also the interior of the barrel is textured so if it starts to become smoothe you have to get the interior of the barrel refinished.  There are definetely pros and cons to this barrel and I would not recommend it for a sniper but heavy gunners pick one up and hold them down.

Asfar as accuracy I have had great results from the J&J barrel kit.  It has different bore size backs and you can getfronts in different lengths from 8"-16" (total length).  It is very accurate and I have heard the same about the Smart Parts Freak Kit. 


I used to have a GTA "sniper" ( and I use the term sniper very loosely) barrel.  All it really did was chop up paint and fly off target.  I wouldnt recommend this barrel at all personally.

Edited by thejudge - 25 April 2007 at 1:46pm
Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...
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Ace_Of_Spades View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ace_Of_Spades Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 August 2007 at 1:05am
i need to know this, is it true that the newer 98c can use the e-triggers for the 98 custom pros? if so i need the serial # of which ones are good to use the e-trigger, dont want to buy an e-trigger that wont fit my 98c haha
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Ace_Of_Spades View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ace_Of_Spades Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 August 2007 at 1:13am

i guess while im asking the above question, i guess i can throw in my own smarts on tippmann upgrades.

ive used alot of barrels, from the terminator, flatline, evil drivers, and hammerheads.


terminators are like any other cheap barrel...not good,

flatlines arent for me cuz i dont like hop-up (where the ball curves back up...Warsensors are good though, i just dont like the flatlines cuz when you need to fire fast, a ball will occasionally break cuz of the violence of the flatlines means of putting that curve on the ball)

if u want a medium cost but still plenty effective barrel, go for an evil driver barrel, the small bore size balls work the best with it.

if u want a great barrel, get a hammerhead, personally i hvae a hammerhead 14" torpedo series barrel, not only is it accurate 99% of the time, if a ball breaks, just shoot it three times and it has just cleaned itself out. its also reverse ported which makes it super quiet literally to the point your gun is making the sound and not the POP u hear out of other barrels, i got the second to last ball sizer and its worked for all the balls ive used.


hammerhead barrels are expensive, but incredible for those go-get-em paintballers

Edited by Ace_Of_Spades - 09 January 2008 at 6:05pm
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ammolord View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ammolord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2008 at 6:51pm
ok how good are the smartparts progressive barrel and the freak Jr.???
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Sangreti View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sangreti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2008 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by paintballer44 paintballer44 wrote:





I am writing this to help the people so they won’t have to post as many questions, although there is nothing wrong with that. It will help keep the forum fast though. This FAQ will cover effective barrel length, the best ways to store paint, what upgrades you may want to consider, types of air lines, etc.


1-      BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)


J+J Ceramic


All American

Tear Drop



Quit Riot

Nite Stik


Big Shot

Boom Stick

Freak Kit

Freak Junior

Evil Pipe

Flat line - A-5

Flat line - 98 Custom




GTA Sniper Barrel

Thunder Pig Barrels



A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…


B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity.

C-Keep rotating the bags


D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)


E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.


3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.



               STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.


              MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at www.countypaintball.com . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.


           MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on www.ebay.com . I have not found them anywhere else.





R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.


Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.


Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.


Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.


Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.


Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.


New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.


New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.


Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.


Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked


Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.


RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)


Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)


Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.


HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers…

10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank

15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank

20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank


Foe more information on HPa/n2 systems, please check the MILKMANS sticky.


There are many more upgrades, but that is all that I can think of right now…and I’m tired… I know I didn’t list all the barrels either, but I will add on to both at a later time.




Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy

·        Good, fresh, non deformed paint

·        Paintballs without paint spill on them

·        Clean paintballs

·        Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good

·        Clean barrel

·        No spurs in barrel

·        Good Paint To Barrel Bore match


Paintball sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html


Barrel Sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html


Remember, have fun and be safe!




thanks ever so mutch love you for ever cuz mots will buy a crappy barrel cuz its cheeper and in the long run its not

~square peg~

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baird View Drop Down


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 January 2011 at 4:16am

Edited by pepprdog - 04 January 2011 at 7:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kobebryant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2011 at 1:25am
Wow! This is a great thread! The thread contains a lot of information, facts and ideas. Thanks for posting this kind of thread. Hope to see more threads like this.
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NicoleSmth033 View Drop Down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NicoleSmth033 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2020 at 4:40am
Thanks for this informative sir.. i really appreciate what you post Wink Big smile
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